D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

Hi Dropbear, thanks for that I will be interested in your impression after you have picked up the van. It is similar to mine and the D4 eats it, it is such a pleasure to be able to relax and roll away the km.......enjoy.
Peter

Sent from my GT-N7100 using AULRO mobile app

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Originally Posted by RobA

Did a demo with a 3000kg caravan and it felt pretty much the same as the Ulti in a braking sense but boy is that a lot of weight behind you

Regards

Rob

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Hi Rob, yes 30000kg + is my normal situation hence why I am trying to get a better understanding of how the various units work. I have a Tekonsha P2 at the moment and not really happy with how it is all working as a system, but is it the controller, the van, the settings or the driver. A bit of stuff to sort out, thanks for the input.
Peter

Sent from my GT-N7100 using AULRO mobile app

Hi Peter, 30000k ....... I hope that is a keying error, otherwise you will need a anchor to two.
Looking forward to first trip with the new van and yes I expect the SDV6 will handle the van with ease. Currently tow a 6m StabiCraft boat and sometimes I forget that it's behind.

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Originally Posted by PJJ

G'day guys

Just to keep you updated on my little Trailer brake Saga.

I had the D4 booked in at Lennocks LR (Canberra) today for A 52K service & asked if they would look at the "no trailer brake signal" problem that I've been annoying everyone with. :twisted:

At this stage the rear parking sensors had also taken their bat & ball & gone home.

Also,yesterday the engine warning light had come on :confused:

I could not believe all this was happening to my poor D4. It seemed like it was slowly turning it's toes(wheels) up.

Anyway when I went in to pick the car up, the Service Guy said they had found a hard short circuit on the brake signal pickup wire to the EBC. He went on to say that I would have to go & see the original people who did the Installation to fix it. :(

I got talking to the Technician that worked on my D4 (@ Lennocks) & asked him to cut this shorted wire, which he did.

Presto!!!! The Body Module Computer (BMP) then restored power back to the Brake light signal wire at the Trailer socket. :D

The rear parking sensors decided to play the game again also. :D:D:D

To say that I was one happy chappie was an understatement I can tell you. :p

So the upshot @ the moment is that I have decided not to go back to the original installers. They have had their time at it & failed twice.

I am going to give the job to Lennocks LR as the Technician that worked on my D4 was very clued up about the Hows & Why's.

One interesting point I found out, was that Lennocks LR used to have the mob I went to, to do their ECB installs. The last 3 installs they had done all had problems. Lennocks LR do their own installs now.

I wish I had known this before hand. Would have saved a lot of travelling & Heartache!

So that is where I am at now. A whole lot happier that I'm not up for a $2500 computer.

I'll let you kmow how it went when the rewire is completed.

Thanks again Guys for your help

Phil

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Phil
Any chance of letting me know who I should avoid in Canberra

Richard

I have just followed Sneigy's wiring recommendations and all went well until behind the rear tail light. I found that the pin 5 brown wire was not connected to any other wire at all like in the photograph. I ended up removing the sockets from where they are attached deep behind the bumper bar (in order to get enough slack) and unwound the tape and found no junctions. The brown wire was single all the way back through the panel and into the loom to where it went out of site heading towards the wheel arch inside the rear of the car. As I had already unwrapped the wiring and had already extended the red and blue wires into the tail light area I still wired them in at that point and just cut and insulated the brown wire that went back into the vehicle. If all new vehicles have this wiring you could do the junctions in the back pocket area rather than behind the tail light. FYI I have a MY14 HSE D4 (DOM 05/2014)


Anyone else found these wiring changes?


Also I noticed that when wiring in the battery through the spare grommet in the firewall that inside the vehicle you need to be careful of any slack in the wire behind the dash board as it may end up wrapped around the steering universal joint if left fly loose. I hooked the black battery wire behind another wiring loom near the centre console then extended it to where I mounted my controller to the right of the steering wheel on the lower panel.

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Originally Posted by Billy Bignutz

I have just followed Sneigy's wiring recommendations and all went well until behind the rear tail light. I found that the pin 5 brown wire was not connected to any other wire at all like in the photograph. I ended up removing the sockets from where they are attached deep behind the bumper bar (in order to get enough slack) and unwound the tape and found no junctions. The brown wire was single all the way back through the panel and into the loom to where it went out of site heading towards the wheel arch inside the rear of the car. As I had already unwrapped the wiring and had already extended the red and blue wires into the tail light area I still wired them in at that point and just cut and insulated the brown wire that went back into the vehicle. If all new vehicles have this wiring you could do the junctions in the back pocket area rather than behind the tail light. FYI I have a MY14 HSE D4 (DOM 05/2014)


Anyone else found these wiring changes?


Also I noticed that when wiring in the battery through the spare grommet in the firewall that inside the vehicle you need to be careful of any slack in the wire behind the dash board as it may end up wrapped around the steering universal joint if left fly loose. I hooked the black battery wire behind another wiring loom near the centre console then extended it to where I mounted my controller to the right of the steering wheel on the lower panel.

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There is info on the MY14 shift of wiring in the thread.I fitted mine over the Xmas break.
Andrew

Apologies. There are so many pages to read and my search didn't turn up anything.
Cheers

Sorry about the picture quality. The first photo is how we fit our trailer plugs and Anderson plugs now, with a custom made laser cut 3mm stainless steel bracket. The bracket is universal, it can be used on either the 12 pin trailer plug or the 50 amp Anderson plug cover, it uses the existing holes and screws. Only one hole needs to be drilled in the rear for the Anderson plug bracket. We painted these ones to blend in to the back of the vehicle. The plugs are positioned so that all the clips on the plugs operate correctly and the rear cover fits back on when not in use.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/02/802.jpg

This second photo is of how we used to do them. It was from these fitments I was able to come up with the dimensions for a universal bracket to accept both the 12 pin plug and the Anderson plug.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/02/803.jpg

Hi Sniegy
Thanks for your posts and photos but exactly where (LHS 1/4 panel) is the wiring found? I gather it is not behind the flap where the tow hitch is stored but rather under the LHS corner near the rear muffer? If yes, then how do you get the wiring harness down low enough to access - do you just pull it off the clips that attach it to the car?
Also is a diode needed on a D4 MY15?
thanks
Rob

Hi Rob,
The loom is where the tow hitch is stored.
If you look towards the top rear you will see 2 plugs. That is where the wiring gets attached too.
You will see a barcode & tape wrapping the harness & the connector, this is where the wire goes from black to brown/black & where it needs to be cut as per the instructions.
A diode is required again as instructed in the write up.
Cheers