Thread: D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

Yep, looks the same as my MY14 which I did half the job on last weekend. Black/brown coming out of the bottom of the heat-shrink section.

I didn't get as far as doing the splicing as I didn't have the cable yet, but did do the mounting of the unit and controller knob. Mounting the unit is one of the few items I couldn't find a lot of info on in this thread, so in case it might be of inspiration to anyone else, there's a few photos below on how I did it. I'm sure there are 100's of ways to skin this cat, but this worked for me and is rock solid.

The factory bracket (silver one) is the one that sits under the steering column and secured by the three bolts at the top. To get the very top one out, remove the headlight binnacle by sticking your hand up from underneath and pinching the two retainer clips. You can then get a socket with extension on there to spin it off. Bit fiddly but doable.

The two new holes drilled into the factory bracket are on the 'high' section with nylock nuts attaching to the black homemade bracket, and the three fixings riveted from black bracket to tow pro sit inside the recess of the 'low' section and past the bottom right corner such that they don't foul.

Job done but not working to well, with tail lights on i am getting power on pin 5 and 7
all ok when tail lights are off.
any ideas? Attached photo of splice, the black going into red is correct, no red wire to use.

Howdy Andrew,

I sent you a PM tonight. You need to cut the Brown wire away from the splice. The Brown wire then attaches to the Blue from your TowPro.

See the photos on the below link (search for "Splice" on page):
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...-brakes-4.html

From the factory, the splice joins Pin 5 & 7 together.

Regards,
Gordon

G,day Gordon
Got it now i have been overthinking the whole project, to much going round the head. Will go out now and snip the wire off. Am using a tablet at the moment have trouble with search and pm popping up.

thanks
andrew

Andrew,
You have connected your blue wire to the wrong side of the brown wire.
It should be connected to the end that goes to the wiring harness at the rear of the vehicle.

Your picture speaks a thousand words. Well Done.

HTH
Cheers

YES YES YES YES
all good works as it should

will enjoy my day at the series 1 get together tomorrow
and have a better trip to Melbourne on Monday to pick up caravan

Thanks again Gordon for pointing out my stupid mistake

Andrew,

I should have clarified that from the factory:
Pin 5 is RH Tail
Pin 7 is LH Tail/Number Plate

... and why the wires are spliced together (at SJ571).

So we are re-tasking Pin 5 (in Oz) for Service Brakes. Pin 7 is then just Rear Lamps.

I'm getting a camper trailer soon hopefully, so I've been investigating electric brake controllers. I'm probably going to have a go at installing one into our defender myself, but for the D4 I decided to get it done professionally - I really don't want to stuff anything up. Anyway, after some shopping around, it seems that the going rate for a Redarc Tow Pro install is around $600 - $700, give or take. But I decided to check with the a dealer as well ... $1500! I mentioned that was more than double the price of everyone else, and was told that was dealer pricing because the job will be done properly. I was also warned that if someone else stuffed the install and fried the electrics it wouldn't be covered under warranty. Looking at Sniegy's instructiuons, it looks pretty simple, and almost impossible to stuff up. Not sure how the dealers justify the price difference, but I suppose I shouldn't be surprised ...

Cheers
Sean