D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

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Originally Posted by strydes

.... ended up copying all the good bits into a word doc so I could have it printed out with me as I did it. I've updated with a few lessons I learnt and attached if anyone else might find it useful.

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There's one update regarding diode position that could be added to your excellent summary document. This update is captured in the D3 EBC thread so is easy to miss.

The diode needs to be upstream (CJB side) of the splice so that the TowPro manual override button illuminates the trailer brake lights. The sketch below is for D3 wire colour but the diode positioning is correct (just change green/purple to red for D4).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/12/445.jpg

See also page 2 of the D3 thread at this link:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...d-photo-2.html

I'd update the D4 wiring diagram on your last page but don't know how to revise a pdf file.

Regards,
Scott

Like this???

If that's the case I totally missed that in the instructions and will need to change my install.

You've got the diode in right position but wrong direction for diode symbol. Change it so the "arrow" points in the "flow" direction. Cathode end with stripe towards EBC.

The only difference from your current install is that the trailer lights will not illuminate when you press the manual button, the TowPro will still work.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lr...5455-diode.jpg

Cheers,
Scott

Right, of course :angel:

Pic is updated and added to PDF and I've updated post above so nobody downloads that and gets it wrong, plus I've added your nice little pic and moved the diode install instructions section down to page 12 when doing the rear connection.

Hopefully no more errors but sing out if you spot anything.

The black wire with the cct breaker should be be at least the same size as the wire you use for the blue . It will carry the approximately the same amount of current as the blue i.e. the full current supplied to the brake magnets.

Regards
Gerry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disco4now

The black wire with the cct breaker should be be at least the same size as the wire you use for the blue . It will carry the approximately the same amount of current as the blue i.e. the full current supplied to the brake magnets.

Regards
Gerry

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Spot on

it's always five o clock somewhere

Hi
Firstly thanks for the fantastic forum - I wish I had come across this earlier. Still having problems with my D4 and Hayes Endeavour controller. It wires up the same (from what I can tell) as the Tekonsha and RedArc but am getting marginal braking unless the manual override is used. Can only think the auto elec might have used wiring that is too small for the current? Any ideas welcomed.

Hi,
Not sure if you have looked at the manual or adjusted the sensitivity but it looks like by default you only get 10% power without deceleration and 50% under full deceleration.

If the brakes are OK with the manual slider then the wiring is probably OK.
The manual seems to be here, you may need to tweak the minimum power and the maximum power settings so its a bit more responsive.



Hayes Brake Controller - Hydraulic and Electric-Hydraulic Trailer Brake Controllers | Hayes

Regards
Gerry

We have just traded our Disco3 on a new Disco4 and need to set everything up again for towing. I have found this thread to be very informative and grateful thanks to all of the contributors. While setting up the brake controller I also want to fit an anderson connector in place of the white trailer socket. Does anybody know how to get enough slack in the wiring for either socket to remove it without cutting the wires?
Cheers, Ian

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ianmclean

.... I also want to fit an anderson connector in place of the white trailer socket. Does anybody know how to get enough slack in the wiring for either socket to remove it without cutting the wires?
....

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Ian, have a look at this recent thread and in particular, the 3rd last post by strydes

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...g-removal.html


Cheers,
Scott