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Hi. Yep been through every bit of literature on offer. manual control still needs close to 85% to have strong braking and have set to that for now. with the same trailer and boat (3t) it needs only 50% max setting. A difference in the tow vehicle for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by disco4now
Even has one side of the trailer jacked up and there was no noticble braking at all with foot on the brake at 20% minimum, needed to use manual override to get the brakes to act on a free spinning wheel.
Thanks Scott, just the thing - I had not found that thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by LRD414
Cheers, Ian
Hi all, pulled the light off the L/H/R of a HSE my16, and I can't find this split joint for the life of me..any tips? I can't take a photo because it's too dark
Assuming you mean the split from single wire to separate black and brown wires within a heat shrink wrap, that's been in the LHR storage compartment for a few years. The earlier ones had it behind the LHR light.Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvo
Here's a photo from page 44 of this thread
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...ler-loom-3.jpg
Hope that helps,
Scott
Perfect!!! Thanks Scott.
Photos of my Redarc Tow Pro install (rear passenger side compartment). A little bit different to what others have done.... as I decided to put the controller down the back. Have a Mitch Hitch, so the space was available.
Only requires a +12V supply cable from the main battery (which I ran at the same time as installing a Traxide kit with Anderson plug). Mounted the circuit breaker to a rubber plug on the battery box. Picked up the earth from the same Earth stud as all the other trailer socket wiring.
The hardest bit was removing the 12V power socket in the console (without destroying both). A 5m CAT5 Ethernet cable between the controller and the remote head is perfect length (ran down the passenger side). Also installed a switch to enable some load resistors when connecting my van which has LED lights.
Put in a 6A diode to stop the back feed to the ECU. Originally used a 3A diode (as other had recommended) but it died after a period with my incandescent globed box trailer hitched. Did a bit of math and worked out it was pulling almost 4A. Had to buy a packet of 10... so if someone (well up to 9 persons) would like a 6A diode... send me a PM with your address... and I am happy to put one in the mail.
Great work the switch is genius by the wayQuote:
Originally Posted by Nod
it's beer o clock
Those load resistors are going to get really hot - I'd be careful with the tow pro wires near them
The photo's do not show that there actually is ~8mm between the resistors and the Tow Pro cables. Been in place now for almost 6 months.... all good! Conducted a test with indicator running for 10 minutes... warm+... the heatsinking must be working well... not hot enough to melt anything.
I find that these small rocker switches work well - hard to knock/break and only require a step drill for the hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nod
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/11/763.jpg
Jaycar SK0960