Thread: piston oil squirters

The machined flat areas are just below the block casting,the large hole is threaded for the valve to hold the squirter in place(it's not just a hollow bolt,there's a small spring and ball in there to keep oil pressure regulated).The small hole suits the dowel which is part of the squirter to align it properly.The part numbers for these are:

8973296180 Check valve/bolt
8943196990 Jet,oil piston

Eric

Originally Posted by THE 109

The machined flat areas are just below the block casting,the large hole is threaded for the valve to hold the squirter in place(it's not just a hollow bolt,there's a small spring and ball in there to keep oil pressure regulated).The small hole suits the dowel which is part of the squirter to align it properly.The part numbers for these are:

8973296180 Check valve/bolt
8943196990 Jet,oil piston

Eric

I guess this is the extra relief valve shown in the dotted outline:


Just went out and had another look at the block with the hole in it, the casting is about 8mm thick around the oil gallery so no problem there, and with a bit of creativity the block can be made to fit in my mill.

So back to the old question, it can be done, but is it going to be worth it?

Originally Posted by Sparkie

but is it going to be worth it?

I have no oil squirters.

I drove my 110 across the Nullarbor at ~120km/h into a VERY strong headwind, with 4 people and a heavy load. Average EGTs were ~700oC.

I have had no problems since, and oil analyses have been normal.

Originally Posted by Sparkie

I guess this is the extra relief valve shown in the dotted outline:


Just went out and had another look at the block with the hole in it, the casting is about 8mm thick around the oil gallery so no problem there, and with a bit of creativity the block can be made to fit in my mill.

So back to the old question, it can be done, but is it going to be worth it?

One eensy widdle advantage of that circuit over a 300Tdi is that on a Tdi the oil cooler circuit has a t/stat and when it opens it by-passes the full flow oil filter just like a pressure relief valve...according to the diagram in the Tdi manual and if my observations of the drillings and circuit in the filter head are correct.

Now a Tdi oil t/stat opens at 74*C and I've recorded temp readings on the oil filter of over 100*C after a 15km run down the highway.....
Would someone actually design an oil circuit like that ?

The poms do some weird things at times, thank the deities (and whoever it was at JRA) for the Isuzu.

Originally Posted by Sparkie

I guess this is the extra relief valve shown in the dotted outline:

...

Correct. As Eric said the pressure relief valve is in the bolt that fastens the nozzle unit to the block.

Originally Posted by Sparkie

...

So back to the old question, it can be done, but is it going to be worth it?

Many others have added turbos to a 4BD1 without any issues showing up so far, which is understandable given their vehicles have a much lighter duty than what isuzu trucks are intended for.

Those people seem to be happy with the performance from modest amounts of boost pressure and fueling. So I would think if you are in this catergory it is not worth it.

If you intend to push the performance a lot higher and or put serious loads on the engine and drive train, then you would be better to swap in a genuine 4BD1T with the stronger crank, bigger clutch, etc. You would probably need to look beyond the rest of the rover drive train as well.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

I have no oil squirters.

I drove my 110 across the Nullarbor at ~120km/h into a VERY strong headwind, with 4 people and a heavy load. Average EGTs were ~700oC.

I have had no problems since, and oil analyses have been normal.

Man that is high, I would have been pooing my self with sustained temps that high. but goes to show how strong/reliable these engines are.

I am nervous when I sit on just over 500 for more than 10 minits.

what boost pressure where you running at those temps.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

I have no oil squirters.

I drove my 110 across the Nullarbor at ~120km/h into a VERY strong headwind, with 4 people and a heavy load. Average EGTs were ~700oC.

I have had no problems since, and oil analyses have been normal.

How much fuel did you burn?

Okay, this was to be the subject of a new thread (with a heap of other questions) but I'll put it in here as it seems appropriate.

I have a '81 4BD1 N/A from my stage 1 that was rebuilt about 25000km ago, its on the floor at the moment due to porosity in the block around no.1 cylinder, about to be fixed.

I also have an '87 4BD1T with IHI RHB6 turbo and compensated pump in my 110 6X6, this engine developed a knock that requires investigation but in the interest of not having everything in bits at once, is still in the vehicle.

Plan of attack:

Bolt IHI turbo and compensated pump onto N/A engine and stick that in 6X6, add decent intercooler, leave boost at factory level (or maybe a smidge higher).

Aquire garret GT2559 turbo and manifold for 4BD1T, run approx 21PSI boost with fuel to match with intercooler etc. Chop the 109 body down to fit the spare Rangie chassis floating around the back of the shed, and bobs your aunty.

The Problem:

Due to the weight of the 6X6, approx 3t unloaded and probably closer to 4t with the camper body I want to fit, plus the added weight of a trailer if neccessary, this engine is probably getting closer to truck operating conditions than in a normal landy.

The simple solution is to find another 4BD1T and use 1 in each, but seems a waste of a nearly brand new engine, and I'd prefer to spend the $ on the rest of the vehicle instead.

So does anyone think the oil squirters would be an advantage in this case, or should I bite the bullet and find another turbo motor.

Gee, it all sounds so easy.

Lyle.