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holed intercoolers (of the air-air variety) you can fix with most of the same external repair methods you use for a holed radiator obviously the stuff that you can dose the cooling system with wont work.
I usually use the tube fold method if its holed via a stake if its just a crack that'll get some careful attention with a pin file and the epoxy.
I thought one of the biggest risks with wta intercoolers was if it stopped working for some reason the motor became way over fueled. Although I would think it would be ok if the egts were watched carefully.
I guess the point is, the vehicle is unable to continue and it's not a five minute fix. But with a WTA, who cares, just turn off the pump and keep driving.
Depends on how the fuelling is setup, the same would apply to a standard intercooler, they both do a similar job.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
My biggest concern about WTA intercoolers is internal leakage where the water leaks into the inlet but thats a quality issue.
Cheers
I have looked into a set up like yours a wile back..... Very expensive:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by 1103.9TDI
Tell me this, is it really that good. How much difference did it make compared to Air to Air or no intercooler?
I'm a little sceptical as no one has any data to back up any claims. I need to drive a few intercooled 4BD1's and a WTA to make my own mine up right;) Who else is running WTA here?
Mine suffers a little at hwy speeds and egts will get up to 600 post turbo wile towing on long hard hills. Only running 8 to 10 psi boost. I seem to notice a small flat spot at 2800 RPM? Always has done this.:confused:
Otherwise goes very well. Very responsive and plenty of poke for off road other than the short fall of max RPMs 3200.
Tony.
The rev limiter is just a screw, adjusted in the same manner as the idle speed. Mine being a JDM truck motor revs to around 3600, Randy with his twin turbo 4BD1 in the states was running it to around 5,000rpm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangier Rover
I made my own water/air system years ago using 2.5m of 3/8" copper pipe inside a sleeved intake pipe, a washing machine pump and a truck cabin radiator out the front. It worked a little, but only dropped temps by 15 degrees and when the pump wore out I gave up on it.
I have a subaru electric intercooler pump and a large water/air intercooler lying aroudn that I bought about 4 years ago now and still haven't fitted it or plumbed it up.
One day.:angel:
Umm, if we are worried about holing an I/C, maybe ditch the turbo too, just one more thing to wrong ;)
Bugger it, doesn't Deutz still make air cooled diesels ? Fixes that niggly radiator and "what coolant do I use" problem too :angel:
:D
Anyway, back to Tony's original Q.
The response issue is a question of how big a column of air you need to get moving when the loud pedal is pressed at idle/low revs.
In a stock 4BD1T, just like our TD42T, it's really short, just up and over the rocker cover.
A top mount I/C, water or air has a similarly short column, although it will be a bit larger due to the slightly greater internal volume, so response should be very similar.
Any front mount, regardless of cooling medium will have a greater response time due to the much larger column/volume/mass and therefore inertia of the air involved.
My sentiments exactly. No substitute for cubic inches. Bung in a 5-6 litre naturally aspirated engine with mechanical injection. The Detroit Diesel unit injection system is a model of reliability, simplicity, and low cost overhaul. For expedition or remote area vehicles as many points of possible failure as can be thought of need to be eliminated. The only electronic systems that should be on a remote area vehicle are ones that do not interfere with the vehicles ability to proceed.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130