Yep - works well. Black lasts the longest in the sun, but white matches the paint ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
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Yep - works well. Black lasts the longest in the sun, but white matches the paint ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
Gotta love 25 year old wiring....especially when there have been previous engine conversions and equipment changes :(
Hoping to try and get rid of some superfluous wire while I'm tidying things up.
Reckon these are the first candidates. Pretty sure these are the aircon relay block and the condensor fan wiring/plugs (aircon is long gone). Both were lying in the mud at the bottom of the RH front guard when I pulled everything apart.
Can anyone confirm if that's a correct identification?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/03/1304.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/03/1305.jpg
Meant to say about the most exciting tool I've bought in a long time...a Vacuum brake bleeder :D:D
Wish I could remember who posted on here that they are an awesome bit of gear - I need to thank them!!
After spending about an hour stuffing round trying to get my clutch bled by myself, I had it sorted in about 5 mins once I got the bleeder.
No domestics with SWMBO or daughters due to "I said down - not up" syndrome, and no spilled fluid. Awesome!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/03/1306.jpg
I was so excited I bought another bottle of fluid and will give the brakes a flush. That's a job I never ever thought I would enjoy doing.
Steve
Your welcome?:pQuote:
Originally Posted by steveG
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...der#post940553
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...der#post880233
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...der#post532513
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...der#post615567
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...der#post620626
I knew it was someone awesome and all-knowing :TakeABow::TakeABow:Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
Free home brew next time you're over this way - much as you can drink :eek:
BTW - my VNT is foobar. Sean from Scroll Products came back to me today after I pays-me-money yesterday. Slight mixup - no turbine shaft available for that particular turbo, seems its a bit of a special :(
So - back to turbo plan A - the T25G. At least I know which way to undo the compressor nut now...
Steve
That wiring certainly looks like the condensor fan relays and diode Steve. BTW I will also have to get one of those brake bleeders - looks like the gear!Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
Correct, Mine are also in the bin now:D I have removed HEAPS of superfluous wiring etc, feels good to clean it up and simplify things!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
JC
Definitely looking forward to getting rid of a heap of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
I almost fried the whole dash when I first got the county due to a disconnected tacho wire that shorted out to earth. Not fused - straight from one of the alternator windings.
Bit scary when you can see a glowing loop of wire inside the dash :eek:
Much prefer to only have whats needed.
BTW - is there a special name for the tape thats on wiring looms. The stuff that doesn't go sticky and yuk with age?
And where can you get it from. The likes of Jaycar don't list it, and haven't seen it at Supercheap etc.
Steve
I've read the threads where a number of people have sourced new EDIC actuators from Chop Hock Hong in Singapore. Seems to be the best source for a new item, but at $200 is still a few $$$ so I looked around for a cheaper option.
I got this 12v unit from my local truck wrecker. Its out of a Mazda truck - I forgot to ask which model.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/03/1266.jpg
It has a maximum possible cable travel of 37mm between the 2 silver marks. The 4bd1 injection pump only has 32mm movement of the shutoff arm, but the cable on this actuator is connected by a spring, so the spring will extend the 5mm difference holding it tight at cutoff:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/03/1267.jpg
The end of the cable is 5.5mm diameter so will take a small bolt to attach to the hole in the shutoff lever on the injection pump:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/03/1268.jpg
Only 3 wires to connect, and they fit the standard Narva 1 and 2 pin square plugs you can buy from any automotive place. I got mine from Bursons:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/03/1269.jpg
I've tested it on the bench to work out what each wire does. The motor/gearbox only turns in the one direction for both extend and retract. Extend and retract is one complete revolution. Electrically it will run in either direction, but mechanically the spring tends to bind up on extension if you run it with the common wire -ve.
In the run position, if you ground the wire to retract it then it runs until fully retracted then stops - with an open circuit between the retract pin and supply. At this point the extend pin gets a circuit to the supply ready for when the extend pin is grounded.
This is the circuit I've come up with to make it work.
Would appreciate any comments/suggestions from those that know their electrickery better than I do:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/03/1270.jpg
Steve
Does your engines injector pump have the enrichment cable? Factory solenoid packs have two cables, one for enrichment, the other for fuel stop.
Only 2 levers on my IP, and no aneroid/solenoids or anything fancy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
Its an early motor - probably around 1983.
Just to confirm (since I've never seen it all hooked up), the lever with the 2 springs closest to the block is the control (throttle) lever, and the other one towards the rear and outboard is the shutoff?
Be interesting if I've got them the wrong way around....
Steve