Reply With QuoteIf they were totally dry, it takes a lot of cranking.
Master
Another inane bunch of stupid questions, before actually spending proper money on expensive bits I decided it would be a good idea just to check the motor actually runs (not sure what I was thinking at the time).
Read the instructions unscrew hand pump crack air screw pump till you die of old age whack a battery in and ignition should be met with a tractor like rumble rumble rumble. Only it hasn't worked out that way, got the guy across the road who has had much experience with various diesels to try and point out where I was going wrong, we determined the prime pump was a bit second rate and replaced that cracked the return line all good. Cranked some more with the delivery line to one of the injectors cracked and zip absolutely nothing. The neighbour assured me that it should be spraying diesel everywhere at this point which its not.
Further pumping on the prime pump seems to be pushing fuel straight out of the return line (we are running off a jerry can ATM) although the system has sat for quiet some time and was most likely dry before we started messing with it.
So is it simply haven't spend enough time on it got to chase more air out of the pump tips tricks ideas? Something is stuck/blocked somewhere and its bypassing he pump and going straight to the return line. Other ideas suggestions? We seem to have good compression and we did get a pop and fart out of it on aero start its also pumping up oil pressure on the starter motor so it all points to the thing should run once we get some fuel to it.
ForumSage
If they were totally dry, it takes a lot of cranking.
RoverLord
did you break the bleed nut on the injector pump?
if you dont crack that one and youve had it run bone dry or sitting for ages they can get cranky with you and refuse to play till youve bled all the air out the injector pump.
my technique is
crack the supply line to the filter from the pump. pump till that gets fuel and lock it up
crack the bleed point on the injector pump, pump till its got clean fuel then lock it up
crack the injector unions on the injectors, set full fuel on the throttle, ensure that the cut off is in the run position (physically check its motion from stopped to run) then crank it till all 4 injector unions just start to spit.
then if the vehicle is nose up hill close all but injector union #1 (#4 if its nose down) and crank it till the open union spits again (sometimes this will be as soon as the engine cranks other times it takes a few seconds.
give it a good hit on the glow plugs and start it up, once it catches set 1000 RPM and close the cracked union.
it should take no more than about 5 minutes to reprime a suzi and have it start
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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Master
We've got this far no worries, try the rest when there is shade where the vehicle is sitting but we've cracked the injector delivery line and this is where it refusing to play the game and its had more than a few seconds cranking.Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Master
Had a bit more of a play with it I think the issue is the stop lever is not playing the game. I'm thinking it should be pulled /move when you go ignition on and should only move again when you turn everything off. Doesn't look like it moving at all I'm by myself so I can't tell if its moving while cranking this is assuming I'm looking at the right contraption pulled by a rather heavy cable than come in at about a 45 degree angle from the FRHS.
Just out of curiosity what pulls it? Servo? relay and where is said beastie. I'll take a photo latter and see if I'm looking at the right thing although pretty certain I have identified the throttle cables so its a bit of what else could it be. Would also explain why we aren't getting any fuel to the injectors.
TopicToaster
SubscriberHere's a photo of my pump. Shutoff lever is the one on the right, and is spring loaded to the run position AFAIK (havent actually had it running yet).
Steve
Master
Thanks for that I disconnected the mounts holding the cable and
WIN!!
It turned over twice and rattled to life even with one of the injectors cracked tightened stuff up the idle picked up and runs like a beauty, thanks everyone for putting up with my incompetence I now know a crap load more about Isuzu injector pumps than I probably ever needed too.
The draw backs I now have to start spending proper money on the bits that genuinely don't work.
TopicToaster
SubscriberGreat result !
To answer your "what pulls it" question, on the other end of that cable there should be a small actuator that looks like an electric window motor with small gearbox attached. Proper name is EDIC motor - maybe someone can spell out what the acronym actually stands for.
There are a few threads on them dying so a search on EDIC should bring up some good info.
Steve
R.I.P.
Electrical Diesel Injection Control
Master
SubscriberYeah -I've found that the actuator cable from the shut-off motor (EDIC- didn't know that's the name for it) is a bit sensitive about placement. The shut-off lever at the pump seems to want it's full range of movement.
Nero: Maybe run some more fuel with strong additive in it for a bit if you are going to leave the motor sit for a long period. This might help cleaning 'cobwebs' and seals in the pump. Dried diesel can gum up too. Just a thought.
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