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Thread: No oil pressure-high blood pressure!!

  1. #1
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    No oil pressure-high blood pressure!!

    Morning folks, thanks for ifo on filter No's. Now try this one. Rebuilt 4BD1. Liners, pistons/rings, big ends/mains, cam follower's, oil pump, oiling jets, turbo, oil pressure sender unit, oil pressure gauge, relief valve in the block is fine, oilways blown out, no obvious internal block damage, good quaility oil filters, 15/40 mixed fleet oil. Start up fine. few days later, with a warm engine switch it off, 10/15 minutes start up again, no oil pressure for 5/6 seconds, then pressure comes up. 15/20psi at tickover, 55/60 with a rev. Same as if you did an oil and filter change, but every startup. Not good for the engine!! Cheers.

  2. #2
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    The oil pickup system has a suction leak or more likley the oil filter check valve isn't working. Change the oil filter again.

    The oil in the engine galleries is draining back into the sump. At startup, an oil pump isn't moving alot of volume of oil at idle speed. Takes time to refill the oilways and achieve pressure.
    Kev..

    Going ... going ... almost gone ... GONE !! ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green

    2014 MUX LST with fruit
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  3. #3
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    The engine was rebuilt 2 years ago. Oil pressure problem. Drop sump new oil pump relief valve big ends/mains oil/filters. Same problem, use for a week it might heal up Ha Ha. Turbo goes bang. (not oil pressure problem). Drop sump check fixtures and fittings. New turbo big ends/mains oil filters. Startup, same again. Engine out stripped checked over again. Another set big ends/mains oil/filters. Same problem. First rebuild l changed the filter housing for metric type filters. The f/f is remote and hangs straight down so cant really leak back on shut down. Cheers

  4. #4
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    So what was the specific oil pressure problem that it was rebuilt for, and was it confirmed that the parts replaced were the cause of the problem?

    From your post maybe the change of filter housing coincides with your drama's.

    Steve

  5. #5
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    Thats what my mate reckons about the housing. So l am going to swap them over. But a problem for the long term as even with a remote filter head it will still get a clump from the prop, and with a spacer block between the housing and block it will be close. How do you get around the filter problem? l got the engine in bits after it was taken out of a 6 wheeled Rangie having "picked up" badly on No 3. l think they only stopped driving it because of the oil consumption. I did'nt actually give up.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by vllage idiot View Post
    Thats what my mate reckons about the housing. So l am going to swap them over. But a problem for the long term as even with a remote filter head it will still get a clump from the prop, and with a spacer block between the housing and block it will be close. How do you get around the filter problem? l got the engine in bits after it was taken out of a 6 wheeled Rangie having "picked up" badly on No 3. l think they only stopped driving it because of the oil consumption. I did'nt actually give up.
    Twin spin-on (FF and bypass) filter housing, and 60mm spacer between housing and block.
    No problems with clearance anywhere (still have standard V8 bump stops - 1985 110).



    Steve

  7. #7
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    Cheers for that pic, they extended the oil pipe on the Rangie at the top with a 3inch spacer at the bottom which made shortening the pipe a pain for me. l like that top spacer though, thats clever.

  8. #8
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    Hello mate, what engine back plate and bellhousing are you using?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by vllage idiot View Post
    Hello mate, what engine back plate and bellhousing are you using?
    Just standard LR bits for the Isuzu to LT95.

    Steve

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