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Thread: LT 95 TRB Problems

  1. #1
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    LT 95 TRB Problems

    Has anyone heard of problems with the standard Army type TRB setup.
    Ritters say there have been so bought out their conversion which has a single piece hollow shaft going right through the T box.
    They said they sold hundreds of them so there must still be some out there.
    I am trying to decide between their box or one I converted ,and by not milling too much off I can still use a standard two piece shaft.
    This is easier to fit.
    Any advise appreciated.
    The box on LHS is Ritters conversion. One on RHS is mine with the blind hole for shaft.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    Has anyone heard of problems with the standard Army type TRB setup.
    Ritters say there have been so bought out their conversion which has a single piece hollow shaft going right through the T box.
    They said they sold hundreds of them so there must still be some out there.
    I am trying to decide between their box or one I converted ,and by not milling too much off I can still use a standard two piece shaft.
    This is easier to fit.
    Any advise appreciated.
    The box on LHS is Ritters conversion. One on RHS is mine with the blind hole for shaft.
    TBH there must be hundreds MORE of the army spec ones being abused on a daily basis, mine is a Mil spec and has some rather substantial torque numbers going through it for over 100K now and no issues. Turbo intercooled 4BD1 and driven hard towing etc etc.

    I wouldn't worry just use the mil one.

    JC

  3. #3
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    use what you've got, either way its a dramatic improvement, you won't have any dramas with it

  4. #4
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    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    I can vouch for over 550K on on a standard military TRB setup behind a turbo 4BD1 with nil problems. Didn't even have to replace the bearings.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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    Thanks, I am going with fitting the Army TRB instead of putting the Ritter back.
    A problem I have is the Army manual I have does not show many views. It says there are two O rings, I appear to have only one.
    It mentions a locking tab. I dont have one.
    Can any one post a pic of the locking tab and what holds the bolt in?
    I need a .196 shim, are these available ?


    Where does one source parts for this assembly?

  6. #6
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    The second o-ring seals the bolt to the rear housing adapter, just slip it off the bolt and you will see it.
    The shim is easy to machine up on a lathe and surface ground to the thickness you need.
    The bolt screws into the front housing adapter and clamps the hollow shaft and rear housing adapter, it can't fall out or drift backwards. Put it together on the bench and it should be pretty clear.

    Eric
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  7. #7
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    Thanks Eric. Just what I need. I was looking for the o ring on the bolt but slipped out and took the bolt out and the o ring is internal, not on the bolt at all. Good photo, I can make a lock tab now.

  8. #8
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    Another question

    My understanding from the manual is the gear and bearing assembly should slide off the hollow shaft fairly easily. I cant budge this one. Are they actually pressed on and off or have I been sold a crook one.?
    I just wanted to check the bearings before I installed it.

  9. #9
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    The bearings are a slide fit(Gears don't actually touch the shaft), no need for a press or anything.
    It may need a light tap to get them moving if they've rusted together or something. Either way they should clean up OK and the bearings are common items found at any bearing shop.

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