Thread: what do people think?

I bought a whole truck to get my engine >> County V8 to 4BD1turbo conversion << The truck was an '88 NPR59 7TGVM with the factory fitted turbo, I'm not sure what other models had them.
The great thing about The Grubb's gearbox conversion kit is you can use the truck type bellhousing, flywheel housing etc rather than hunting for the Land Rover specific items which can be difficult to find. The truck sump is an advantage (on a County at least) as it provides a bit more clearance for running the exhaust inside the chassis.
There are guys on here with Isuzu's in Rangies who will have a better idea what's involved in fitting one, but Im pretty sure you would need to upgrade the front springs.

Cheers, Murray

Easy fit, Ideally a 2" body lift on the rangie is needed

I have mounts I've cut off you can borrow to copy, but I think DeRanged has a jig

A truck would be a very good idea with the correct box, just buy a new 12V starter and alt, good things to have new regardless

thanks so much, the truck as a donor is the way to go, do the 12v starter and alternator go on as direct replacements for the 24 or are there any mods that need doing.

looks like this is a go as soon as money allows!

As Matt said, i think the 2" body lift is a must, plus i'd be inclined to mve the engine forward a little, even 15mm will do, just to give a bit more room when plumbing up the turbo. I've just fitted this combo to my LSE, not quite finished yet, its a work in progress

Mine has no lift, just packed the bottomout bumpers on the front axle by an inch and removing the thick rubber gasket between the block and the sump. Mine is a 1986 truck 4BD1T. The body lift will make fitting everything in a whole lot easier. I run 180lb/in springs all around with koni gas shocks. Front and rear axle weights are very close. Koni gas shocks ride 20mm higher than twin tubes.

Mine also runs the original V8 mounts with adapter plates bolted to the engine. It works well but the V8 mount faces are steeper than ideal for the Isuzu 4. Making new chassis mounts gives you more room to route the exhaust.

I run the Isuzu 5 speed MSA-5G with what I beleive is an austin allegro gear-lever grafted into the top. The guy who did that must have been a genius, but sadly he doesn't remember doing it. It used to be awful but a few weeks back I remade the shoe the gearlever pushes the rods with and now it's quite good.
My transferbox is LT230R with the 1.003:1 high ratio from the early 3 speed auto RRC. I run 29" wheels and this gives me 2000rpm at 100km/h.

once again, thank you all for the info,

Rangie already has a 50mm body lift, which will definitely be staying if it makes it easier, and already have electric fans so should have room to move things forward if that helps too, very interested to hear that Dougal has an engine from a 1986, does anyone know how old they go, obviously the older they get the cheaper they can be had, and I don't think a few kms is anything to be scared of with this engine!

sounds like there are a few options for engine mounts to, thank for the offers to copy, I'm a sheet metalworker so when the time comes I may well take you up on it, a proven thing is always better than an estimated first attempt!

it all actually sounds quite easy, are you all just lulling me into a false sense of security or is it actually quite straight forward, as long as you can fit everything in?

thanks again for the help people, much appreciated

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...49-begins.html

Originally Posted by finallyrangie

once again, thank you all for the info,

Rangie already has a 50mm body lift, which will definitely be staying if it makes it easier, and already have electric fans so should have room to move things forward if that helps too, very interested to hear that Dougal has an engine from a 1986, does anyone know how old they go, obviously the older they get the cheaper they can be had, and I don't think a few kms is anything to be scared of with this engine!

sounds like there are a few options for engine mounts to, thank for the offers to copy, I'm a sheet metalworker so when the time comes I may well take you up on it, a proven thing is always better than an estimated first attempt!

it all actually sounds quite easy, are you all just lulling me into a false sense of security or is it actually quite straight forward, as long as you can fit everything in?

thanks again for the help people, much appreciated

The first 4BD1T arrived in late 1985 for the 1986 model year. Around 1988 they changed the manifold, the turbo and the cam timing. 88 onwards engines should be about 8% more efficient according to the US versions and their EPA tags.
The 1985 4BD1T produced 116hp from 70.4 mm^3 of diesel per shot.
The 1988 4BD1T produced 126hp from 70.0 mm^3 of diesel per shot.

I wouldn't call any engine conversion straight-forward. But it's all been done before so you've got plenty of backup.