Master
SubscriberGot the old girl boggedand in trying to get her out, damaged the clutch and it's slipping. Go's through the gears all right but slips when you put the boot into it. what do you'se recon, whole clutch assembly or can I get away with just the plate? any recomended suppliers?
I guess the motor will have to come out, anything else I should do while it's out? cheers in advance.
RoverLord
If you actually damaged the clutch, it is likely that you need both a complete clutch and a skim of the flywheel. But there is a possibility that the bogging and the slipping clutch were not directly connected, and you have oil on the clutch (engine or gearbox). Pull the wading plug and see what comes out. If this is the problem you probably only need the plate.
In either case I suggest replacing the spigot bearing and clutch release bearing.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Master
Subscriberwading plug aye...she was definetly wading...maybe just water/mud in there? there isn't the usual smell with a burnt clutch.
RoverLord
engine out.
cooling system, fuel lines, front brake line engine mount, hidden strainer no-one knows about, clean up the electrical loom, heater matrix and fan.
that'll get you started.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
RoverLord
Even if the wading plug was in place, this does not guarantee that water will not enter, especially if it was stationary for some time with water above the approved wading limit - there are no gaskets for example on the flywheel housing to bell housing and if it is like mine there is no positive seal between the flywheel housing and block, so there is a good chance of this happening. If it did, small quantities of oil could have been floated onto the clutch. Good practice is to remove the wading plug after this sort of even to drain any water that has entered.
Ideally, you would remove the engine (or gearbox, but engine probably easier, depends on what gear is available) before ordering parts. While out check both the crankshaft seal and gearbox for oil leaks and rectify while it is out.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Wizard
I have had a slipping clutch when I had my Isuzu county, I pulled the engine out and noticed that the end of the fork (the short end next to the case) had worn down the case and made a lip so the fork was unable to fully return to apply full pressure on the clutch plate. The reason this happened was the pivot pin for the fork had loosened and dropped down a little, this resulted in the fork rubbing on the bell housing making a lip.
The fix- drill a hole through where the pivot pin is housed and through the pin and use a roll pin to locate the pivot pin in position. File or die grind the lip away on the bell housing.
You will need a right angle drill to do this job.
The other way of doing this is to remove the pivot pin and drill the hole out all the way through. You weld on a threaded extension to the end of the pivot pin then refit the pivot pin and use a nut and washer on the newly added end.
Saying all this yours clutch could just be stuffed but it is worth doing this mod to prevent these symptoms later on.
have fun.
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