Thread: Replacing Preload Swivels & King Pin Bearings

yep, where In QLD are you...

in any case head over to Daves interesting things on the site adds and purchase a Rave CD rom, setup is the same as for the defender.

Did this a year or two ago. As Dave says - get a copy of the manual; see "shop" on the top menu bar. You are not likely to have any major problems, although some things are a bit heavy.

I would be inclined to simply adjust the preload first, as this may solve your problem, with a lot less work, but in reality, it is likely parts will need replacing.

John

9 times out of 10 if you have play in your swivel bearings they are R/S. It doesnt cost much to to replace them. Most bearings made today dont need a change of shims, as long as you have around 9lb drag on the steering arm. If you are going to play around with shims you may as well just replace the bearings!

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Did this a year or two ago. As Dave says - get a copy of the manual; see "shop" on the top menu bar. You are not likely to have any major problems, although some things are a bit heavy.

I would be inclined to simply adjust the preload first, as this may solve your problem, with a lot less work, but in reality, it is likely parts will need replacing.

John

Hey Guys, two questions:

Firstly as you may know, I'm planning to do some repair work to my swivel balls. I went into the local landy supplier today and he ask me what type of axles I have. I have a 86 model county 110 and to my knowledge the axles are salisbury(?).

Apparently some axles had swivel balls with a tapered bearing on the bottom and bush with large 'stepped' swivel pin on the top. Whereas some axle types had a bearing with a smaller diameter swivel pin on the top.

Based on the above info re the vehicle what's the likely configuration?

Also I understand that the 'death wobble' symptoms that my car is displaying may be due to loose wheel bearings. I'm quite familiar with the sound of failed wheel bearings and am certain that this is not the case. However apparently they can become sloppy/ loose over time and consequently result in wobble.

Has anyone experienced this before and is it simply a matter of tightening up the thrustwasher?

Appreciate your response.

Thanks

Originally Posted by 110Landy86

Hey Guys, two questions:

Firstly as you may know, I'm planning to do some repair work to my swivel balls. I went into the local landy supplier today and he ask me what type of axles I have. I have a 86 model county 110 and to my knowledge the axles are salisbury(?).

Apparently some axles had swivel balls with a tapered bearing on the bottom and bush with large 'stepped' swivel pin on the top. Whereas some axle types had a bearing with a smaller diameter swivel pin on the top.

Based on the above info re the vehicle what's the likely configuration?

Also I understand that the 'death wobble' symptoms that my car is displaying may be due to loose wheel bearings. I'm quite familiar with the sound of failed wheel bearings and am certain that this is not the case. However apparently they can become sloppy/ loose over time and consequently result in wobble.

Has anyone experienced this before and is it simply a matter of tightening up the thrustwasher?

Appreciate your response.

Thanks

Only the rear axle is a salisbury, the front is a bog standard rover type diff. Have a look underneath and not the difference in the diff centre.

You will have a (Railko) bush at the top of each swivel.

Wobble may be caused by the swivel preload (adjusted by shims). It could also be propshaft UJs, Uneven tyre wear/inflation, or other causes. IME it is unlikely to be wheel bearings.

Originally Posted by 110Landy86

Hey Guys, two questions:

Firstly as you may know, I'm planning to do some repair work to my swivel balls. I went into the local landy supplier today and he ask me what type of axles I have. I have a 86 model county 110 and to my knowledge the axles are salisbury(?).

Apparently some axles had swivel balls with a tapered bearing on the bottom and bush with large 'stepped' swivel pin on the top. Whereas some axle types had a bearing with a smaller diameter swivel pin on the top.

Based on the above info re the vehicle what's the likely configuration?

Also I understand that the 'death wobble' symptoms that my car is displaying may be due to loose wheel bearings. I'm quite familiar with the sound of failed wheel bearings and am certain that this is not the case. However apparently they can become sloppy/ loose over time and consequently result in wobble.

Has anyone experienced this before and is it simply a matter of tightening up the thrustwasher?

Appreciate your response.

Thanks

As isuzurover says, the "death wobble" symptoms are unlikely to be the result of wheel bearings - the most likely single cause is free play on swivels, but in reality the problem is likely to be contributed to by a number of defects, of which this is simply the most important, and hence fixing it will stop the problem. But other faults, such as worn or loose suspension bushes, worn tie rod ends, out of balance wheels, loose wheel bearings, bent tie rods, incorrect toe out (don't bother adjusting this unless swivels and tie rod ends have no free movement!) etc should be fixed as well. Raised suspension is also likely to make steering geometry more critical.

Your County is over 25 years old, and, depending on its maintenance history, is likely to have a number of substandard parts due to wear and turn.

John

Replace both panard rod bushes and see if that improves the instability. IMHO SuperPro Polyurethane bushes are the best for this, they don't mind a bit of power steering fluid on them.

Originally Posted by 1103.9TDI

Replace both panard rod bushes and see if that improves the instability. IMHO SuperPro Polyurethane bushes are the best for this, they don't mind a bit of power steering fluid on them.

Spoken like a true County owner!!!!!!!!

JC