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Thread: 4bd1 front crank seal replacement

  1. 9th February 2012, 07:28 PM #1
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    4bd1 front crank seal replacement

    Any tips or tricks with changing the front crank seal with the engine still in the vehicle?

    I'm planning to pull the radiator out for better access, but not sure on the best way to lock the crank to undo the nut, and also to torque it up again to the required 316 ft/lbs. Is there an easy way to lock it, or does it really need a tool made up to bolt to the harmonic balancer to be able to do it properly?

    Also, is there anything else worthwhile checking while the pulley is off and its easy to get into the timing cover?

    Steve
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  2. 9th February 2012, 09:40 PM #2
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    4th gear, high range CDL in parkbrake on wheels chocked with a bar braced from the brake pedal to the seat box keeping the brakes on.
    Dave

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  3. 9th February 2012, 10:07 PM #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    4th gear, high range CDL in parkbrake on wheels chocked with a bar braced from the brake pedal to the seat box keeping the brakes on.
    Thanks Dave - the brake pedal part sounds like a job for SWMBO

    Steve
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  4. 10th February 2012, 06:05 AM #4
    Dougal
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    Check for wear grooves on the pulley. I had a bad one, turning it smooth on a lathe with a new seal sorted my leak.
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  5. 10th February 2012, 09:35 AM #5
    uninformed
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    316ftlb what are you going to measure and install that with?
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  6. 10th February 2012, 09:59 AM #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    316ftlb what are you going to measure and install that with?
    Unless one of my mates has a large enough torque wrench, I'll have to improvise as my biggest one is only 250 ftlbs.

    Around a 30kg pull on a 5 foot bar (measured using a spring scale) should be pretty right my calcs.

    Steve
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  7. 10th February 2012, 03:32 PM #7
    uninformed
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    yep hard work. I had to help an older mate with a bung shoulder fasten his 7t JD tractor wheel nuts.....400 or so ftlb. He had a 4 foot long torque wrench and I had to hang right of the end of it. we ended turning a alloy clamp and used some light wall tube to slip over it so he would be able to do it solo. we also had to fabricate a stand to support the head as the wrench needed a socket extension to get inside the wheel....
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  8. 11th February 2012, 04:24 PM #8
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    I used large breaker bar that i then chained to my chassis then cranked the motor with injector lines cracked then prepare for bang.....
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  9. 12th April 2012, 09:02 PM #9
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    Had my first crack at getting the crank nut undone tonight. Only succeeded in bending the piece of tube I had on the 3/4 breaker bar - heavier tube required I think

    Failing that I guess it might have to be the breaker bar and flick on the starter option.....

    Steve
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  10. 14th April 2012, 01:01 PM #10
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    Had another go at this today after picking up 2m of heavy wall tube for leverage

    Park brake on, CDL locked, high range, 4th gear, wheels chocked and someone on the brakes.
    There is something slipping once I've got most of my weigh hanging off the end. I assume its the clutch. Got my daughter to give it a smack with a lump hammer while it was loaded up but no joy.
    2m x ~90kg is lots of torque

    Also tried the starter trick that was good on 300tdi's. No joy - even with leaving around 15cm gap between breaker bar and wood on top of chassis rail to let it gain some momentum.

    I don't have oxy at home - just a small butane burner and electric heat gun so might give those a try. Not concerned about wrecking the seal as its being replaced, or the bonded pulley as I have another one to fit.

    Any other ideas before I drag out the cold chisel and grinder?

    Steve
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