Or help me keep up with the Nissan Z that was in front of me this morning :twisted:
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sorry john my bad
where did you get your pump work done at? without sounding rude :angel:
I was very pushed for time when I posted my previous reply and didn't concider the question properly and assumed something that may not have been meant.
In one sense my reply was correct. That is considering the pump delivery.
But the governor type used with our pumps controls the pump delivery over the rpm range for varying loads.
I have previously posted the full load calibration diagram from the manual for 1985 - 1988 4BD1T pump with boost compensator. This diagram and the associated table give delivery at different rpm. Without going back and checking, the set point 'A' is the calibration for max torque and is somewhere around 2500 engine rpm. After this calibration the link that turns the torque cam as rpm changes is adjusted to achieve the calibrated flow on either side of point 'A'.
During calibration on the test bench the pump speed is set accordingly and the delivery from each pump element is measured over 1000 strokes.
I sent my pump down to DieselTech in Vic.
I can see where you're going with this, how about removing the front drive shaft, running without a transfer case would be advantagous too! Of course you could go the whole hog and make it a convertable with an angle grinder, remove the doors and get rid of any unrequired trim, ie passenger and rear seats......ditch bullbars, winches, compressors, etc......
You'd end up saving a lot of fuel too, in between the circle work that is....:D
Or theres this which has front tailshaft connected still...i think that the company that built it also build carcrafter22 injection pump and that run the truck used 6gallons of water via water injection and running 1000cc of fuel which somewhere on the net it explains how they get that much fuel and basically its by using a 12cyl pump on a 6cyl motor!
YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.m/watch?v=XAIHPzuqSc4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Somebody mentioned an electrical lift pump to increase the fuel pressure before it reaches the IP?
Would a stock V8 carby version electrical lift pump do the job, or are we talking a 3PSI EFI jobbie?
I assume by pre-pressurizing the diesel, the IP does less work, there is less kW lost and also you get a higher nozzle pressure?
Or what? :confused: