6bb1's are common but im yet to find places that dont want rediculous prices for engines that have no history....im thinking the 6cyl motors are easier to find than the 4cyl motors though.
6bb1's are common but im yet to find places that dont want rediculous prices for engines that have no history....im thinking the 6cyl motors are easier to find than the 4cyl motors though.
Thats reasonable compared to everyone thats selling 4bd1t's are looking for 5kthats rebuilt but i ask them for a non rebuilt one because i want to do a few things to it myself and they then dont want anything to do with it ...
I wonder how much torque a tuned one could push out![]()
The 6BD1T, would be good for the reasons mentioned. From what I've heard the 6BG1T is much better still.
Randy has had a few mentions here, and further to those posts; his other truck is a Chevy Duramax with a +200 HP kit fitted (so about 530 HP), but the 4BD1T powered F-truck performed better than it.
The stock head gasket should be OK for almost everyone. ARP studs will help further. I found ARP stocked studs that suited, but I had to counter drill 2 holes a little (like where the dowels are fitted) to sink the studs so #2 & 3 injectors could seat properly. I also had to do similar for the stud near the front block for the rocker shaft.
For high boost pressure and rpm, consider stronger valve springs - with a small mod (lathe required) the spring caps can accept 110 lb aftermarket (Crow or Crower) springs for a chevy V8.
Balance engine.
Tune the fuel injection pump, increase injector pop pressure, and fit a good fuel lift pump. For high fuel rates, have the injector nozzles enlarged by extrude honed or spark eroded.
Upgrade turbo and fit a decent intercooler.
My 4BD1T has all of the above except silly fuel delivery and larger injectors.
No one has suggested the obvious fit the number plates to something else, 6cylinder dunndore or fraud would be a significant upgrade.
When tuning for high performance the upgrades in the following order.
1. the twit behind the wheel this is relatively easy and moves across very easily when you change cars.
2. Suspension if its not trying to axel tramp through a corner you are more likely to hold the throttle down further for longer.
3. Brakes if you can confidently brake latter you spend less time going slow.
Then you can start messing with power.
huh![]()
110lb springs should be easy to obtain as they are light for a petrol from what i hear.
Oh thats the other thing that i done was icrease the injector pop pressure (cannot remember figures now)
Nero i see your point but when im sitting in my landrover that revs to half that of a petrol and weighs 1t more than a commodore and im overtaking it because it has sensed a slight incline it makes me feel happy but just imagine if i could get mine to go even better ! I figured this via my formula power+diesel=
How many cc's/1000 at 2500rpm are you at john ? out of interest...
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