Thread: 120 Isuzu Ute

This thread is relevant to your interests http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...tplaces-7.html Other than the standard rust in the firewall bottom of the doors the chassis add ins are prone to corrosion (about halfway along the chassis rail).

Now I'm hoping I'm not dumping on the owner but without seeing it I would suggest 6-8k as a going rate for the model with the kms dragging it down a bit. Although in the flip side find one with less event he newest ones will be at least 20years old now.

Originally Posted by Nero

........ Although in the flip side find one with less event he newest ones will be at least 20years old now.

The last 120 would have been made in 1989 - so it will be over twenty years!

Compared to the Disco it will be noisy (very), and shaky, but driving should be pretty similar except for the lack of sway bars and the stiffer springs, but the longer wheelbase will partly compensate for this. Of course the longer wheelbase also makes it less handy in parking. The only weaknesses are as mentioned, although the five speed box does not respond well to this engine unless treated with care.

Note that it does not appear to have power steering, but this would not be difficult to fit.

On the face of it, it sounds like an excellent buy, although expect the price to be well above redbook prices.

John

1.) Rust - all the usual spots
-chasis (front dumb irons, all outriggers, gearbox & rear crossmember + chassis extensions as mentioned),
- firewall (base of both footwells, bottom frame where it's screwed onto the front outriggers)
- door bottoms are guaranteed to have rusted out (unless replaced by one of the POs), so its just something to be prepared for.
- diesel tank(s) check for leaks, or evidence of patch jobs. The original tanks trap water between the tank skin and bash plate, so prone to rusting
2.) Check interior plastic trim (especially the instrument panel and its support) - 4BD1 is known to shake these to bits (although that one looks recently replaced). Engine rattle is also known to snap body rivets, so you may want to check that one too, although its an easy fix.
3.) Engine is likely to be bulletproof (so long as regular servicing was carried out), gearbox and transfer recently rebuilt (not much to worry about there, although the 4BD1's not kind on the 5 speed) - with 400k on the clock, check for drivertain backlash, wear in suspension bushes, power steering / brake fluid leaks. The ad says it's all been fixed / replaced recently which is a real bonus if done properly. Checking condition may give you a better indication of what price to bid to.

HTH

Bojan

Thanks to everyone who replied, it's very much appreciated. My partner and I are going to drive up and see it tomorrow, so I hope it's as good as it sounds (but not too good that I can't afford it!). Eight hour round trip, so better call it a night.

I'll let you all know how it turns out.

Thanks again.

400,000kms no turbo, just run in should be good.

Cheers Casper

Hey Bojan

What are the most common causes and easy fixes for driveline backlash?

Originally Posted by eeyore

Thanks to everyone who replied, it's very much appreciated. My partner and I are going to drive up and see it tomorrow, so I hope it's as good as it sounds (but not too good that I can't afford it!). Eight hour round trip, so better call it a night.

I'll let you all know how it turns out.

Thanks again.

You have proberly already checked it out by now but if you have not when I bought my 120 it had come from a farm also every bush on the thing had to be replaced not a big issue but check it out. Remember it is 20 years old. Yes they do vibrate a bit on idle but on the road its a lot smoother and compared to my 130 it just got so much more get up and go. I love it but I am not sure about the speeding fines I seem to have incurred since driving it. Good luck with it.

Originally Posted by land864

Hey Bojan

What are the most common causes and easy fixes for driveline backlash?

Sell your truck, buy a new Defender, and hope for the best!