Hi CHIEF
I know the bolt you mean will check it out. I have a tacho connected to a W wire on the alternator. Also have a handheld tacho that I've confirmed rpm with on the crankshaft pulley so I know it's within less tha 100 rpm of the dash tacho.
Looking at the bolt (housing the filter) it looks prety hard to get to as it's partly inside the engine mounting bracket. Is there a trick to getting at it??
No real trick, just mash your fingers till they flex the wrong way, dislocate your wrist and elbow...not hard at all Once you get started it isn't difficult and is well worth checking. Mine had some black gunk and something fibrous stuck in it.
I used an open ender spanner to remove/refit mine. A stumpy spanner may be easier but I don't have one.
This is what it looks like once out:
the brown bit at the top has the gauze, it slides or screws out of the metal fitting (I can't remember).
Ha ha - the only thing wrong with you guys is that my tea breaks are too short. - I get. Problem on the LR ask a question on here mistakenly think I'll work on something else and then go in for a cuppa and there's the answer ready for me to get back to work. Well after lunch I'll have a go at that bolt thanks for the advice - I'd planned on removing the engine mount nut and using a sling on that side with the engine hoist - I'll try the short open ended spanner first.
OK it's after lunch - hiiden filter found removed cleaned and replaced - can't test the max revs in top gear though because last weekend I managed to back into a shortie patrol I use around the place and buster brake and indicator lights. These are NAS lights so I have a couple of pairs on order from the UK should arrive next week I hope. I found gunk and fibre and some paint flecks. This gunk effectively blocked one of the holes in the banjo bolt so I could have been dow by 40% + on fuel flow (in theory at least. I also found it not to hard to get the bolt out with the reccommended short 17mm o/ended spanner. Getting the bolt back in however was a pain so I made a quick helper up see pics (If I manage to upload). I'll keep you posted on performance.
few hot days may be the cause
as for cylinder i do not have my manual where i am at the moment but from memory it was around the 400psi mark with a 10% variation..someone may be able to verify that at the moment for me..
i doubt there would be a need to do a compression check i was going to but felt no need as it starts first go,runs smoothly,does not blow any white smoke on startup (unless i have been playing with timing ) it will be fine...although injector crack pressures may need checking
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Once you get started it isn't difficult and is well worth checking. Mine had some black gunk and something fibrous stuck in it.
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