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Thanks John....the turbine housings on them look strange I've noticed but never seen one in real life....
Just curious where your Air filter is going to be positioned ? And the intake route ? As I was going to mount my cold side forward which would have under slung the turbo compared to now where ive positioned it for shortest distance to air cleaner...
Remember that turbine housing has no waste gate.Quote:
Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
The air filter location is one of my hassles - probably behind the single cab.
Edit: I want to use my compound turbos, after it is registered and because of my IP settings wanted it provide enough air at low rpm so as not to smoke during rego inspections.
Auh yes that would contribute to the look of the turbine housing being different then :D..so with that turbo you were running external wastegate ? Or controlling boost via fuel settings ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
I'm anxious to see how your compound setup works out :)
So with the length of the intake being from rear of the cab it wont cause pressure drop problems will it ? Having said that you will compensate with boost anyhow I guess..
Out of interest Are you looking into flywheel weight like dougal and myself are seeing as though you will probably be getting some nice figures lower in the rev range...
On my 90 I had the air filter mounted behind the cab on the top of the tray head board. From the top of my safari snorkel (which is 3.5in dia), I had a 90 degree 3.5in bend feeding into a 3.5in tube running above the drivers door back to another 90 degree in to the cleaner. It actaully didn't look too messy. The rubber bends where black and matched the snorkel and air cleaner and the pipe was white poly so blended in with the roof. The 3.5in run was just over a metre.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
Also affecting the appearance of the turbine housing is that the compressor is quite large (76mm) and the turbine housing has a tight A/R, because I wanted it to spin that compressor wheel early.Quote:
Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
With regard to a waist gate, I intend to suck and see, as to whether an external one is necessary. I thought probably not if I contolled my right foot and it was intended to be temporary (as well as learning experience) until the compound set is installed.
Because my air flow rates will be much higher than for a 4BD1, I was not intending to use the stock landie air cleaner. The choice of air cleaner, as well as length, diameter of the snorkle tubing, and type of tubing and bends, etc. all affect the total pressure drop before the turbo.
The absolute pressure at the compressor inlet, times the PR (pressure ratio) determine the outlet/boost pressure. Compound turbos are able to provide far higher PR, more efficiently than a single turbo. The compounded PR = PR1 x PR2 (where PR1 and PR2 are for the high and low pressure compressors).
Very interesting !!! What size/model air cleaner are you thinking about using ? Also out of interest what diameter pipe are you going to use between turbo and motor ?
Are you happy with the single turbo ? Obviously not as good as the r2s but not all of us are that lucky :(
Those compounds are very rare from what I've been researching ...
.... and have you butted a LT230 up behind the MXA yet to check clearance? :)
sorry sheldon have not had time to do that yet as i have been mounting the turbo and doing stuff under the bonnet mostly and to add to the excuses work has been getting in the way with everything but this will be coming to an end by next week as i will be resigning and going to a better job with time to do my projects and get you the info hahaha :DQuote:
Originally Posted by the_grubb
ok as everyone knows i have been tinkering with the diffs under this thing and have been trying to come up with some better option than rover diffs so i have been discussing it with cal415 and have came up with the solution....
with the front i want to keep the rover housing so i can retain the removable swivel balls as i recon they are a good idea and is how i am correcting my castor problems but as most will know they can bend if put under the correct conditions so i have done some bracing of the long side and welded a pipe cap in place of the tin pan.
as for internals i tryed fitting a nissan centre in the rover housing but they are huge and all the centres i have laying around did not fit but i do have a full 80series diff laying around that was out of a 4.2 diesel so that means 4.11:1 gear ratio so even though there is mixed opinions as to if they are stronger or not is a worry but then i think i know more people with 37" tyres on 80series than i do on rovers...they snap cv's now and then but ill just replace with longfields and then that should be fine plus my maintenance on this thing once up and going will be every 3000 motor and gearbox oil change and diffs about every 5-10k which most toyota drivers would leave for what 60-100k :eek: i am going to put an eaton elocker in the front and the swivel balls are just about to be slotted...
the rear will be dana60 35slpline with eaton elocker that is all :D
I have thought about a Donaldson powercore, but will probably use both (in parallel) FPG Donaldsons that I have left over from other projects.Quote:
Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
2"
Single is ok, but cost more than what I paid for the compound set :)