Thread: c.h.i.e.f 's 110 Isuzu county

just came to the realization that nothing on my landrover is landrover anymore apart from the body and chassis like most of us that are into modifying our vehicles everything landrover is being replaced for higher quality more durable components...lucky landrovers have the looks


ps: ill have some usefull posts by mid week touch wood

Started making the coupling to mate the lt230 to mxa can only see if it works out





I decided to use some 4140 to make the flange out of which will also incorporate the oil seal surface...the surface hardening on the output shaft I am using was difficult to machine even with carbide tips but once it was attacked the underling material isn't to hard... A considerable amount of time will be spent to get all measurements to size to shrink fit the shaft into the flange and get the finished radius's to an acceptable size..

What diff are you going with in the front?

Originally Posted by Benji4BD1T

What diff are you going with in the front?

Well after making jigs up to slot the swivel balls on the mill and starting to beef the front diff up I decided to go with moulding my 80series front diff into the rover housing I then dropped that idea as it would be mixed and matched and when something does snap what part is it so I started getting one of my GQ diffs ready which I then also scrapped and now I'm grafting a GU diff under it and be done with it...by the time that breaks (if ever) it will be strictly an offroad vehicle.

have you ever broken any front diff/axle component in a land rover?

Originally Posted by Benji4BD1T

have you ever broken any front diff/axle component in a land rover?

Never broke anything in the county but with my defender the cvs were a different story and that was with 31's and a 200tdi so I am taking no chances when I am running 35's and a 4bd that is going to have a considerable amount of power and I don't want to have to baby it incase the diffs let fly

The 110 stuff is alot stronger though. For the past 6 years i have run maxi-drive front diff lock, hi-tough axles and early range rover cv joints, first in my discovery ute which had 33's then 35's and a 200tdi with every power tweak possible, then the 4bc2 went into the ute but it had been run without an air filter on a farm in a series 3 for far too long and carcked it the the 4bd1 turbo went in to it and i did a hell of alot of off roading including towing a hilux from the bottom of daniels point road track in the watagans and when my ute got rear ended and chassis bent the engine and front and rear axles went into the 110 which has been across the continent and back and now in tassie trying to find the hardest tracks on offer (not enough technical rocky steep tracks down here) and in all that time i have NEVER broken a cv joint, axle or and drive line component, the cvs were second hand when i first fitted them!
IMHO if i were you i would put a maxi-drive or mcnamara diff lock in the front (NOT arb (air leaker) as they are the most unreliable diff lock available s**tty little o-rings always leak) and hi-tough axles and your 110 cvs and if your worried about crown wheel and pinoin get a reverse cut set from ashcroft and i you will not break anything!

Originally Posted by Benji4BD1T

The 110 stuff is alot stronger though. For the past 6 years i have run maxi-drive front diff lock, hi-tough axles and early range rover cv joints, first in my discovery ute which had 33's then 35's and a 200tdi with every power tweak possible, then the 4bc2 went into the ute but it had been run without an air filter on a farm in a series 3 for far too long and carcked it the the 4bd1 turbo went in to it and i did a hell of alot of off roading including towing a hilux from the bottom of daniels point road track in the watagans and when my ute got rear ended and chassis bent the engine and front and rear axles went into the 110 which has been across the continent and back and now in tassie trying to find the hardest tracks on offer (not enough technical rocky steep tracks down here) and in all that time i have NEVER broken a cv joint, axle or and drive line component, the cvs were second hand when i first fitted them!
IMHO if i were you i would put a maxi-drive or mcnamara diff lock in the front (NOT arb (air leaker) as they are the most unreliable diff lock available s**tty little o-rings always leak) and hi-tough axles and your 110 cvs and if your worried about crown wheel and pinoin get a reverse cut set from ashcroft and i you will not break anything!

Thanks for that .... I also contemplated sticking with the rover front too however I decided that by starting with something that's rubbish and upgrading it in the end I have a polished piece of crap so I went with the Nissan front and Dana rear...same said for the rover gearboxes I was going to persist with them by rebuilding with uprated components but in the end I decided to just go with something strong standard...having said this there are most out there that are very happy with there upgraded rover stuff which is good but I don't plan on going easy on it I don't have any figures on what my setup used to run or is going to run but i would say that it is double what a 200tdi can put out hence the need for upgrades...