Thread: c.h.i.e.f 's 110 Isuzu county

Flywheels are balanced individually. They are a seperate item to the engine and a replaceable part. I will be trying to source a new genuine turbo flywheel (depending on price) and I'll bet my left one its balanced.



Justin

Originally Posted by DRanged

Flywheels are balanced individually. They are a seperate item to the engine and a replaceable part. I will be trying to source a new genuine turbo flywheel (depending on price) and I'll bet my left one its balanced.



Justin

good point justin that is a simple way of looking at it well in that case what dougal said about just asking to get the arrangement balanced as a whole should be fine then... what may the difference between your current flywheel and a turbo one be?

Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

Thanks dougal any links to that article you were reading ? Yeah I suspect most motors will be out of weight in some areas which I can see the benefits in getting the motor blue printed i just suspect that the job is to hard for most places so they bypass the job at hand... You will now need to buy another 4bd1t to put in the new rangie rather than transferring everything over if I were you I'd turbo the new one just so you can run a blow off valve

Turbo 3.9 v8. Sounds practical.

Somehow right now I have 5 vehicles and the old rangie is the only one that I can just get in and drive. Latest purchase isn't here yet, one to sell, work car is playing limp mode and new rangie is misfiring when revved.

But back on topic.
My plan was to attach the inertia ring with a ring of cap screws which usually run about 1mm clearance in the holes. The main job of the balancer will be to adjust the position of the inertia ring within that 1mm float to get the best balance. Once that point is found, I'd drill a couple of dowels through for location, so it can be removed and reinstalled in exactly that position.

Alternatively you could centre it as best you can and pin it in place. Then give the balancer some centre drill marks to drill out material for balancing.

Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

good point justin that is a simple way of looking at it well in that case what dougal said about just asking to get the arrangement balanced as a whole should be fine then... what may the difference between your current flywheel and a turbo one be?

Thats what I'll be trying to find out from Isuzu next week.

Justin

Originally Posted by Dougal

Turbo 3.9 v8. Sounds practical.

Somehow right now I have 5 vehicles and the old rangie is the only one that I can just get in and drive. Latest purchase isn't here yet, one to sell, work car is playing limp mode and new rangie is misfiring when revved.

But back on topic.
My plan was to attach the inertia ring with a ring of cap screws which usually run about 1mm clearance in the holes. The main job of the balancer will be to adjust the position of the inertia ring within that 1mm float to get the best balance. Once that point is found, I'd drill a couple of dowels through for location, so it can be removed and reinstalled in exactly that position.

Alternatively you could centre it as best you can and pin it in place. Then give the balancer some centre drill marks to drill out material for balancing.

Hahaha very practical indeed...So the old diesel jigger is the only reliable vehicle then...people ask me why I don't like petrol cars well it's not that I dont like them I just prefer diesel...5 landys starting a museum ...

Yeah I will probably do roughly what you described (use cap screws 180* opposed,counter sink the holes, get it balanced,then get dowels placed in it then re,balanced then it can be removed whenever required) however I don't like my chances at convincing these places to do it although if John recommends HB sales they must be the go....

2 rangies, 2 nissans and now a skoda. In 2 years it will likely be 2 rangies, 2 skodas and no nissans.

I'm thinking for the dowels, if we start with a drilled pocket in the ring at the intended location, you can run it so the remaining material drilled out for the dowel is matched to the weight of the dowel. Preserving balance in the final pinning stage.

But I'm also thinking a close clearance hole on two of the cap-screws might be good enough for location. I haven't put any thought into the maximum imbalance that would be tolerable or noticable on a big diesel. Do you have any insight John?

Originally Posted by Dougal

2 rangies, 2 nissans and now a skoda. In 2 years it will likely be 2 rangies, 2 skodas and no nissans.

I'm thinking for the dowels, if we start with a drilled pocket in the ring at the intended location, you can run it so the remaining material drilled out for the dowel is matched to the weight of the dowel. Preserving balance in the final pinning stage.

But I'm also thinking a close clearance hole on two of the cap-screws might be good enough for location. I haven't put any thought into the maximum imbalance that would be tolerable or noticable on a big diesel. Do you have any insight John?

So you like the skodas then ? Seem happy not to have a Nissan

Mmmm that would cease the need for the second balance...that procedure seems like the way to go...accurate holes hopefully won't be to hard if set up correct on the mill (touch wood) I assume the bolts should weigh the same...
With my calculations the inertia ring should weigh around the 9kg mark based on figures 390mmOD (mines more like 388.74mm), 340mmID (close fit to pressure plate) , 40mm thick and using mild steel density figure of 0.00785g/mm^3

Chief, when I had to replace the clutch on the Tdi 80,000km ago I had the flywheel and PP balanced when I had the f/wheel machined.

It's no biggy.