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Still looking for the good ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
One thing I should mention. Unlike almost every other 4BD1 conversion, this has no body lift. It has 1 inch longer bump-stops in the front to keep the diff off the sump. Everything fits tight, but it fits.
Here's a video from when it had the T25 fitted: http://users.actrix.co.nz/dougal.ell...with%20T25.wmv
All the interesting videos I have are .mov files. I need to compress them better and WMM won't do it.
A video of the closest I've got to overheating it. This is up a skifield at around 2000m elevation. A climb I managed to do some of in 4th gear. All was good until the hose to the overflow bottle went (silly setup).:D
http://users.actrix.co.nz/dougal.ell...20steam%20.avi
This is how mud holes go when you left your mud tyres at home: No turbo whistle in this one, I had the half rooted IHI fitted.
http://users.actrix.co.nz/dougal.ell.../rover_mud.mp4
Did you get the turbo balanced after the new compressor wheel?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
Reason I ask is I have put a new turbine wheel/shaft and rebuild kit into my t25 and not sure if to get it balanced or not
No I didn't get it balanced. I have done about half a dozen turbo builds with complete loss of the original balance and none of them have caused any problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by HotWired
All the parts are balanced individually, so the final balancing is only dealing with a tiny residual. This is more of a noise and refinement issue than anything else.
Well I might just throw it together and see how it goes. Thanks for the help.
I looked into the balancing side of things as all the distributors say the turbo will fly apart if not balanced but when you look into it deeper to get the thing balanced it costs half as much as a new turbo and from what I can gathere it's setup on a vsr balancing machine and tested at operating speeds but as dougal said each individual part is balanced which I after doing the same to my gt2052s it ran fine until I snapped the exhaust wheel off but that was due to being silly :angel: I think the gains from balancing on these machines would be in ultra high performance situations and most likely testing turbo configurations in regards to output ratings etc etc
Getting back to the idea of adding extra inertia to the flywheel.
I haven't had my engine out for about three years (longest time ever:D) so I don't have all the measurements, particularly the clutch pressure plate. This means I can't know for certain if an extra plate sandwiched to the flywheel face will fit and work.
But I do have accurate models of the flywheel housing, flywheel and gearbox bellhousing. Given that I also have the smaller diameter 275mm clutch and pressure plate, there is space around the edge of the flywheel for an inertia ring.
Just throwing around ideas, but this ring is ~17mm thick and 40mm long. It would give ~60% more inertia than stock and it looks like it will fit.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...ertia-ring.jpg
Here is an as-built of my current MSA-LT230 adapter. Included in this picture are the original MSA output flange and the Rakeway style LT230 input shaft with a rover diff drive-flange. Plenty of space between them for an adapter block, I would have to bore out the original LT77 rear housing (shown yellow) or simply find a better way to attach it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
I've got my old pressure plate sitting in the shed. Can easily take some measurements if its helpful.
Steve
Yes please. OD is the main one. They look pretty much circular.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
Did you end up getting any response from rakeway about there shaft dougal ? I sent them one in regards to the shaft also and I have had no response :mad:
I'm very interested in this extra weight as I have mentioned before but I may need to goto a larger flywheel to accommodate a larger 300mm clutch to suit mxa