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Thread: New Isuzu Owner

  1. #31
    captainslow Guest
    Rob, first you have to find the Voltage Regulator relay (the other relay is the Charge Relay that drives the charge light on the dash).

    Under the regulator is a big resistor - this will go between the Common and Normally Closed contacts of the Voltage Regulator relay.

    On this relay you want to bend the armature away from the Normally Closed contact. That is, you want to make it easier for any voltage applied to the coil to move the armature from the Normally Closed to the Normally Open contact (this action reduces current to the field coil of the alternator).

    I don't have the regulator in front of me so I can't say exactly where to start bending but if the above makes sense it will give you a starting point.

    Be interested to hear how you get on. Mine has settled down to under 15volts after my "adjustment" a couple of months back so it is worth trying.

    Pete

  2. #32
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    Still haven't gotten round to fixing the charging issues but I have managed to swap the rear doors and get the old bull bar off

    Turns out the mounting bracket that fits over chassis had fatigued away leaving the bar only bolted on one side

    it's now got a bumper from a defender on the front which looks very sharp imo


    the sill tank(holed) and side steps will be the next to go then new tyres.

    Any recommendations I still haven't decided I'm thinking the 235/85 on disco rims is the way to go unless there is a taller size again I should look at

  3. #33
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    Bit of an update. I gave the steering an adjustment today following Series III Steering Wheel Play as a guide.

    I've gone from 3 or 4" of play to 2" which is a significant improvement but not quite there yet. I can see the steering box wiggle around a bit if I swing the wheel around while stationry so I'll try tighning up the bolts that hold it in place but I think I'll need to take a close look at some of the firewall in the area it bolts through.

    The only other new drama is the exhaust fatigued off right at the the flange that bolts onto the manifold. I suppose I'll call around tomorrow but does anyone have an suggestions on how to go about this. I'm wondering if I shouldn't just get a new section of exhaust fitted or if they can weld it back up(I assume that wouldn't last long enough to be a serious option)


    Cheers

  4. #34
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Worth noting that my Isuzu engined 110 has a steady bracket on the exhaust pipe to the outer starter mount bolt. A real pain every time the starter needs to come off, but your experience suggests why it is there. With this addition, welding it up may be satisfactory.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #35
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    So,

    Bought another one today, was suppose to be looking at it for a mate but too bad it's mine now bit of rust in the rear cross member and a bit in the front where the bar work has been welded in but all in all not to bad.



    Will likely need to sell the stage1 now or the disco but it'll be a hard choice to make

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Distortion View Post
    Still haven't gotten round to fixing the charging issues
    Did you ever sort it out? I worked it out on mine.... Black on the new alt is batt and earth on the old so the alt will over charge. I removed the external reg and wired it up with black to the alt from the batt and it works a test.
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  7. #37
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    no not fixed yet but I now have a working setup on the county to compare with, so I'll prob have a go next week.

    Keep in mind I replaced my alt with an identical one so it should bolt straight in
    I have a feeling it's just the reg than needs adjusting but it hasn't bothered me while driving round

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Distortion View Post
    So,

    Bought another one today, was suppose to be looking at it for a mate but too bad it's mine now bit of rust in the rear cross member and a bit in the front where the bar work has been welded in but all in all not to bad.

    Will likely need to sell the stage1 now or the disco but it'll be a hard choice to make
    Glad you weren't looking at if for me

  9. #39
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    Ha yeah, he couldn't commit to it and it was too good to pass up myself
    not alot of paper work/history but it all looks clean

  10. #40
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    Hey, are we still sharing????

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