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Thread: compound turbo set up

  1. #21
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    Thanks Dougal
    I had looked at a few designs but each one was different . I suppose it's try and learn scenario , it does seem now with more investigating and comments here your correct. It's a bugger as I don't know if it will fit, but hey I'll try.

    Justin

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRanged View Post
    Yep searched all that , BUT without making another manifold etc and spending a heap of cash, which I dont have the above set up is what we can do with what we have. The schwitzer's inlet is split as it is non wastegated so basically 1/2 of the engines exhaust is bypassed through it anyway!!. Yep got the cold side sorted, note the photos are showing the current single turbo air set up.

    Justin
    Divided turbine housings don't normally bypass 1/2 of the exhaust gasses from the turbine.

    The division is to prevent low pressure pulses from some cylinders interfereing with high pressure pulses from others - normally with a 6 cyl engine the front 3 are divided from the rear 3 in the manifold and the housing keeps them separate until the turbine.

    As others have suggested, the turbos are back to front. With compounds, the small turbine is closest to the manifold, and the larger turbine closer to atmosphere - tubines operate with an expansion ratio (opposite compressors, which have a pressure ratio for boost), the gasses expand through the 1st turbine stage as some of their energy is transformed to mechanical work, so a larger turbine is required for the 2nd turbine stage.

    On the air side, the large compressor is closest to atmosphere (1st stage compression), and the 2nd stage compressor (near the engine manifold) needs to be smaller.

    Usually you size the compressors so the operating pressure ratio of each compressor more or less equally contribute to the overall pressure ratio (need compressor maps for both to determine what this will be). If required overall pressure ratio is to be say 4, then PR for each can be 4/2 = 2 (PR1 X PR2 = overall PR). Because the inlet air density for the 2nd stage is greater, the torque will be greater and if shaft strength is a concern then lower the PR of the 2nd stage (and increase PR of 1st stage).

  3. #23
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    Do you have any pics of your setup with the GT2052 as a single?

  4. #24
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    Progress

    Ok
    Thanks for pointing me in the right direction guys, you learn something everyday hey!!!! So have now pulled everything off and have re-mounted the Garrett on an angle back to the firewall as close as I could to allow room for the waste gate actuator. With the exhaust outlet facing up. This way i can get the Schwitzer basically sitting almost above the alternator giving me a decent path for cold air and exhaust. Also it will open up some areas for brackets back to the engine to support the weight of the Schwitzer. No photos tonight as the power went out and my son convinced me to get the RC Landys out for a rock crawl challenge

    Dougal here is the best photo I have of the Garrett as a single set up.




    If I can get to the exhaust place tomorrow and get him to machine bend me a tight 90 I should have the Schwitzer mounted and will get some pics. I will have to wrap all the exhaust side pipes as they will be close to the bonnet.

    Justin

  5. #25
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    Progress

    Well that was a right pain in the ass making all of this fit!!!!!!!!!!!

    It was a juggling act to get the following all to clear and have the best access I could get.

    Waste gate actuator to firewall
    Top of the schwitzer to clear the bonnet (bloody close)
    Drain on the schwitzer to clear the alternator
    Adequate clearance for all cold side tubing
    Clearance for the schwitzer exhaust around the shock tower and donaldson.

    But I think we have just made it.


    so it all comes off and gets fully welded & cleaned up etc. then re-fit with all the oil & drain fittings. next will be a support bracket from the AC compressor to the exhaust stud on the schwitzer and possibly another back to the manifold to help support the weight & minimise vibration.

    Justin

  6. #26
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    Good effort.
    Fitting two turbos and a 4BD1 into a rangie engine bay is bloody hard. But you're getting there.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Good effort.
    Fitting two turbos and a 4BD1 into a rangie engine bay is bloody hard. But you're getting there.
    A rangie engine bay has a heap more room than a 110 engine bay!!!

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    A rangie engine bay has a heap more room than a 110 engine bay!!!
    Aren't 110's a whole lot deeper? I have no body lift and my thermostat housing touches the bonnet lining.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Aren't 110's a whole lot deeper? I have no body lift and my thermostat housing touches the bonnet lining.
    You must be the only owner of a modified rangie with no BL (and still running standard tyres???)

    Bonnets are easy to modify for extra height. Gaining extra width you need in a 110 engine bay isn't...

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    You must be the only owner of a modified rangie with no BL (and still running standard tyres???)
    At least with an engine this size in it. If you wanted to run an LD28 or other little diesel, there's heaps of room.

    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Bonnets are easy to modify for extra height. Gaining extra width you need in a 110 engine bay isn't...
    The shock towers would be in the same place, they are a hassle width-wise. The guards outside those are good for low-height stuff like washer bottles and 12/24v switches, but just too tight to fit all the things I want. I literally have nowhere I can fit a donaldson filter housing big enough to feed my engine.

    Length is a big issue too.
    And when I've finally found a way to feed a front-mount intercooler, I find another rangie to buy.

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