Thread: well we have done it, bought a 91 RR for conversion

Originally Posted by Dougal

I'd rather be beaten with a shovel than buy one of those.
The 1HZ is only bulletproof because it doesn't have the power to hurt itself. Bolt a turbo on and all bets are off. It's also incredibly thirsty (20% less efficient than a 1HD-T, 30% less than a 4BD1T) and has weak heads if boosted.
They will never ever be remotely comparable to an Isuzu 4B. Even the IDI 4BD2T is a far better, more reliable and efficient engine.

The 1PZ has all the downsides of the 1HZ combined with really difficult parts supply because it was only made for a few years. Like the HZ, the PZ wasn't factory turbocharged.

Toyota make exactly three diesels worth owning. The 1HD-FT/FTE which is the 24v 6 cyl 4.2.
The 3BT/14BT/15BT which are four cylinder series ranging from 3.4 to 4.1 litres.
The 1KD-FTV.

You need a 4BD1T and MSA gearbox. Buy grubs short-stick kit and get to work. I'd keep the vogue alloys and watch the coopers carefully. There are more horror stories about those than all the other brands combined.
I have an 85 Vogue with the same (but pre-dated Grubbs kit by ~20 years, Isuzu has been in since 92). I will be updating to a 93 body at some stage.

I have already been talked out of the Toyota-- we do want economy & reliability, at least 10 litres per 100 km, or better. We got 10 per 100 out of our 1989 Series 3 non turbo 4bd1.

tell me about that 3.6 litre Isuzu, and does this bolt strait onto a LT95-- It seems the LT95 is the only choice of gearbox--will google that MSA you mentioned and check that out.

On our series with its LT95, I always was putting my hand on gear knob to change into 5th, then realising I was already in top gear. And that was without the turbo. That is why I was wondering about rebuilding our R380.

Originally Posted by JohnF

I have already been talked out of the Toyota-- we do want economy & reliability, at least 10 litres per 100 km, or better. We got 10 per 100 out of our 1989 Series 3 non turbo 4bd1.

tell me about that 3.6 litre Isuzu, and does this bolt strait onto a LT95-- It seems the LT95 is the only choice of gearbox--will google that MSA you mentioned and check that out.

On our series with its LT95, I always was putting my hand on gear knob to change into 5th, then realising I was already in top gear. And that was without the turbo. That is why I was wondering about rebuilding our R380.

All the Isuzu B series blocks are externally the same. So you can fit a 3.6 litre 4BE1 in exactly the same way as a 4BD1 or 4BC2. The 4BE1 was never factory turbocharged and came in several iterations. Some featured rotary injection pumps, others inline. Some ran the scroll type intake manifold, others an intake manifold similar to the 4BD1, but with a bigger entry point. They produced more power in non turbo form than the non turbo 4BD1 did, despite the 300cc difference in displacement.

My rangie does 10km/l on a trip, but I've never got much more than that. Hit 11km/l once, get the occasional 10.5 or 10.3 but it's usually bang on 10 for a trip and 9 when tootling around. 8.5 if I've been going places offroad or towing.

The Isuzu MSA gearbox (NPR 5 speed) has 97mm shaft centres (these set the size of the gears within), the R380 has 77mm shaft centres. There's a significant strength and longevity difference. Yes people are running R380's behind Isuzu's and getting away with it. But it's not something I'd do. R380 is rated to 380Nm of torque, 600Nm can be wrung from a 4BD1T without much difficulty. Most with turbos will be running around the 400-450Nm mark.

have not finished working m wa through the thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...-lt230-31.html as yet [36 pages, I am up to page 31,] I am thinking the MSA gearbox, but the finance department will have some say in this decission. the 3.6 l motor, starter and gearbox for $722 on e-bay, according to ione of those posts, sounds good to me if we can find one for ourselves.

If I had the time I would still like to get a front cut 2002 2003 Jackaroo 3.0 TDI. There is a company in the UK that do a conversion kit to LT230 but not sure if it is with R380. Would be very cool if you could use the Jackaroo auto.
Dont get me wrong the 4BD1 is a great conversion but I am finding it to be very coarse and noisy for the longer trips. Took the wifes V8 D3 for a 5hr run the other day............I forgot what bloody nice was!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Justin

Originally Posted by DRanged

If I had the time I would still like to get a front cut 2002 2003 Jackaroo 3.0 TDI. There is a company in the UK that do a conversion kit to LT230 but not sure if it is with R380. Would be very cool if you could use the Jackaroo auto.
Dont get me wrong the 4BD1 is a great conversion but I am finding it to be very coarse and noisy for the longer trips. Took the wifes V8 D3 for a 5hr run the other day............I forgot what bloody nice was!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Justin

Oh dear Justin you've started it now I do agree though they are very primitive and agricultural...

Originally Posted by DRanged

If I had the time I would still like to get a front cut 2002 2003 Jackaroo 3.0 TDI. There is a company in the UK that do a conversion kit to LT230 but not sure if it is with R380. Would be very cool if you could use the Jackaroo auto.
Dont get me wrong the 4BD1 is a great conversion but I am finding it to be very coarse and noisy for the longer trips. Took the wifes V8 D3 for a 5hr run the other day............I forgot what bloody nice was!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Justin

The 4JX1?

That is a unit injector motor and while it pumps out about 180hp, it's got the major problem of coming to life before diagnostics were standardised.

I would consider a 4JH1 (3 litre VP44 pump) or 4JJ1 (3 litre common rail, the current NPR 3 ton engine) before the 4JX1. But all of them would require a lot of work to integrate and get running.

Just buy a TDV6 D4 and be done with it. They get better fuel economy than any 4BD1 and have 600Nm off the showroom floor.

The 4BD1(T)'s forte is being the strongest, simplest and the biggest mechanical tdi engine that can be fitted easily into the coil sprung landrover/RRC/disco 1 chassis. It can't compete with current offerings for refinement and fuel economy, but NVH can be perfectly acceptable with appropriate work on engine mounts and sound insulation.

I agree with Dougal after driving a pristine TdV6 D3 yesterday...but then I think of the simple torquey, efficient, reliable (although not anywhere as refined as most other diesel engines) 4BD1T, and remember all the reasons I went down this route with my touring / towing/ daily driver vehicle.


JC

do remember our 1979 Series III did have a 4BD1 in it, so we are aware of vibration and noise.