Vanes one way won't make boost, makes big whistle but
What actuator are you using?
What position are the vanes in when trying to make boost?
Your driving not free revving right?
As mentioned in my earlier thread, I've bolted a GT2260v variable geometry turbo from a 3.0l Iveco Daily van to my Isuzu engine. To control it I'm running a dawes valve setup as shown - nothing complicated - the alternator vacuum pump applies vacuum to the actuator, and boost from the turbo cancels out that vacuum pressure proportionally, as shown.
The mechanics of the setup seem to work, however try as I might, I can only get about 3-4psi of boost registering on the gauge, no matter what way I manually manipulate the vnt actuator. I can't really find any info online as to what I'm doing wrong, but I'm wondering if anyone else has played around with a similar turbo, or can hazard a guess as to why I'm getting such low boost pressure??
Vanes one way won't make boost, makes big whistle but
What actuator are you using?
What position are the vanes in when trying to make boost?
Your driving not free revving right?
Yep, makes a nice whistle alrightWhat I meant to say is that I've seen if the position of the vanes has any effect on the amount of pressure created.
The stock vacuum actuator that came with it. But it seems to be working - the lever that changes vane position is travelling to its upper and lower limits without problem.What actuator are you using?
The vacuum actuator is pulling tight, so vanes closed (???)What position are the vanes in when trying to make boost?
Not driving at the moment, working on it in situ, but even so, I should be getting more than 3-4psi of boost.Your driving not free revving right?
You need to drive it to make boost, wind the fuel screw out too
Mike,
your diagram would infer that at minimum turbo boost your actuator is seeing maximum vacuum
and as turbo boost increases the actuator sees less vacuum (pressure to actuator increasing)
it was my very poor misunderstanding that VNT vacuum actuators were such that increasing vacuum (decreasing pressure) increases vane pitch and thus boost.
yours if i have your diagram right it will only work if the actuator is such that decreasing vacuum (increasing pressure) is increasing vane pitch (boost)
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
My understanding is this:
At slow engine speeds, the vanes are in the closed position narrowing the gap between them which effectively accelerates the exhaust gas onto the turbine wheel. At high engine speed the vanes open up slowing the exhaust gases, which stops the turbocharger from over-boosting.
So, going by the diagram above, at slow engine speeds (no boost), the actuator gets full vacuum which brings the vanes to the closed position.
At high engine speeds, the vacuum is partially to totally cancelled out by the boost pressure which forces its way through the dawes valve. This drop in vacuum pressure in turn releases the actuator and allows the vanes to open.
Or am I wrong??
I'm under the impression that the diaghragm actuator should be connected to the boost pressure line, not vacuum ???
Clamp the boost line to the Dawes valve and see what it does.
If it doesn't got to fully closed vanes and full boost, then you have a vane position or vacuum problem to look at.
Some VNT's have a grub screw to set the maximum closed angle of the vanes. Too far closed and it's exhaust brake. Not closed enough and it's not going to drive the turbine hard enough.
I don't understand the needle valve to atmospheric. You are playing boost vs vacuum. There is no need for a vent in the circuit.
Vacuum pump - restrictor valve - actuator - Dawes valve - boost port.
Sounds like you need to give it more fuel.
VNT turbos use a vacuum actuator, not a boost actuator. Normally the amount of vacuum applied is controlled by the vehicles ECU, which takes into account engine speed, throttle position, etc. The above plumbing is basically a workaround to get an ECU controlled turbo working without the ECU.
Yep, this turbo has a grub screw to control maximum closure of the vanes. We've tried adjusting it, but it doesn't seem to be making a difference.
This is if you want a fancy adjustable setup - some people put the needle valve in the cab so you can fine tune when boost kicks in. I haven't bothered - I'm running the setup you've outlined above.I don't understand the needle valve to atmospheric. You are playing boost vs vacuum. There is no need for a vent in the circuit.
Vacuum pump - restrictor valve - actuator - Dawes valve - boost port.
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