Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 44

Thread: Alternator problem

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Acacia Ridge, QLD
    Posts
    582
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Diodes?

    Sounds like the diodes to me, same symptom as my car. I bought a new alternator from the auto electrician with greater power and machined the pulley a little to suit. It s possible that two old alternators could have the same symptom. All alternators have diodes in them as far as I know, since the output is DC. Old cars had generators the AC was rectified at the commutator and brushes so they had no diodes. The external regulator if fitted is isolated from the power when the key is off, it could be a faulty ignition switch. If you have the wiring diagram, I have only he defender on but similar i guess. Turn off the ignition
    disconnect the positive cable and connect a test light, ( a parking light bulb is a good one) into the circuit, one side to the battery the other side to the positive cable, if you have leakage the lamp will come on, the brighter the light the bigger the leakage.
    Identify the fused connections to the positive, ignition switch, demisters, lights etc , remove the fuses one at a time and check if the light goes out, if it goes out you know which circuit the leakage is in. check the starter motor cable for grounding or leakage. disconnect the alternator ( at the alternator side ) if the light goes out it's the alternator. good luck

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    if you want and can make it swing on out I'll be doing a heavy spannering day on saturday with a bloke who needs help to do a heap of maintenance work on a td5 90.

    happy to play auto sparky for you if you can get here.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland
    Posts
    5,778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I think I'll just buy the alternator in the eBay listing.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  4. #14
    Judo's Avatar
    Judo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Parkdale, Melbourne
    Posts
    2,919
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you don't want to risk wasting money on another alternator, I highly recommend simmo's advice to double check where you are losing power first.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland
    Posts
    5,778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I know there's power flowing through the alternator due to the following:
    * fitted replacement alternator late Saturday;
    * started ok Sunday, took it for a drive;
    * Monday battery low, wouldn't start, ran started down drive way;
    * parked at train station for the day, restarted at station to check if charged enough;
    * 6pm battery flat, called RACQ, clamp meter showed current in leads from alternator while ignition is off;
    * put battery on charger over night;
    * Tuesday & Wed I've been unplugging alternator (rear of alternator) after driving, reconnecting when driving, and battery has been ok.

    However, you're right I'll also check using a test light before I buy.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Those ebay ones are a low quality aftermarket job. The part numbers are only for cross reference.
    If you've got a genuine denso or mitsubishi etc I'd recommend getting that repaired over buying the ebay one.

    If you really want a new one, buy one from one of the local ebay vendors with a 2 year warranty...

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland
    Posts
    5,778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    It's a Hitachi 12v unit which sounds like being unique in Australia to the Perentie. Other 4BD applications are generally 24v. I was quoted prices $1200 through to $2000 from Isuzu for a replacement Hitachi. . I don't have part numbers for other makes. The local auto electrician couldn't find a replacement.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Moonee Ponds 3039
    Posts
    42
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by rar110 View Post
    I think I'll just buy the alternator in the eBay listing.
    Hi mate,
    I am just experiencing no charge from the alternator
    I spoke with a friend of mine at the petrol station that has a workshop as well.
    He told me that if it was the brushes, if you hit the alternator with the hammer with the engine on, the light on the dashboard should blink (mine didn't). If not it's time to replace.
    Then I called a friend of mine how is an auto electrician in Italy and he told me that the alternator usually last 160.000/180.000km (mine is 165.000).
    He said as well that the regulator is the first thing to go.

    But my good news for you is this
    I don't know the year of your landy, so....
    ....go here 90-110 & Defender Engine Electrics - Major Components at www.rimmerbros.co.uk and get the part number for your truck,

    then go here Alternator - Land Rover Part ERR6999 and insert the part code, then choose the manifacturer you prefer (this example is for Td5).
    Following the best-to-worst quality manifacturer:
    Bearmach-Allmakes-Britparts
    The first two are good, the third is ****
    Trust me, including the shipping you will end up to pay almost 50% compared from anywhere in Oz. For my case is 500$ all together.

    Cheers

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    West Gippsland - Victoria
    Posts
    2,907
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rar110 View Post
    I know there's power flowing through the alternator due to the following:

    ............................current in leads from alternator while ignition is off; .....................................
    Your alternator's stuffed. There's (usually) six diodes in the alternator and it only takes one of them to be crook for this to happen. It's a very common fault.

    IMO you'd be better off with an overhauled quality alternator than with a cheap POS Chinese knock off. It's not a difficult job, I'd expect somewhere around the $200 mark unless there's something particularly quirky about the Hitachi alternator. Not all auto elecs do rebuilds now a days as it's simpler/cheaper for them to replace. Try an 'old time' auto elec or one that does trucks and or farm equipment as they are more likely to still have/ use these skills.


    Deano
    Last edited by DeanoH; 22nd May 2014 at 01:15 PM. Reason: more info

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland
    Posts
    5,778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by dado.mago View Post
    Hi mate, I am just experiencing no charge from the alternator I spoke with a friend of mine at the petrol station that has a workshop as well. He told me that if it was the brushes, if you hit the alternator with the hammer with the engine on, the light on the dashboard should blink (mine didn't). If not it's time to replace. Then I called a friend of mine how is an auto electrician in Italy and he told me that the alternator usually last 160.000/180.000km (mine is 165.000). He said as well that the regulator is the first thing to go. But my good news for you is this I don't know the year of your landy, so.... ....go here 90-110 & Defender Engine Electrics - Major Components at www.rimmerbros.co.uk and get the part number for your truck, then go here Alternator - Land Rover Part ERR6999 and insert the part code, then choose the manifacturer you prefer (this example is for Td5). Following the best-to-worst quality manifacturer: Bearmach-Allmakes-Britparts The first two are good, the third is **** Trust me, including the shipping you will end up to pay almost 50% compared from anywhere in Oz. For my case is 500$ all together. Cheers
    The engine is unique to Australia so won't have a parts listing in the UK.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!