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Thread: Crankshaft pulley

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Queensland
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    Crankshaft pulley

    Hi any tips for removing a crankshaft pulley in situ?

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
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    When I changed the front seal on the county I removed the radiator to get decent access.
    I had lots of drama getting the nut off as it was seized on solid. Even a week of penetrant, rattle gun, cold chisel, and finally a 2m pipe on the socket while someone stood on the brakes with it in gear wouldn't budge it (only ended up slipping the brand new truck turbo clutch).
    Finally got it off by splitting it with a die grinder and cold chisel. Nuts are cheap and are the same item as the truck pitman arm nuts. Around $10 from memory.

    Pretty sure once I got the nut off removing the pulley itself was easy.

    Good luck.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  3. #3
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    Location
    Queensland
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    Thanks Steve you've really inspired me haha! On second thoughts do i really need to change it out...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Others have had no issues, so I'm hoping that since I've described it as the job from hell it will go really smoothly for you

    I'd definitely start giving it a few doses of your favourite penetrant brew now, to give it plenty of time to soak in. Won't do any harm and if its a little bit stuck might make the difference between being able to crack it loose or not.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Queensland
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    Thanks for your advice. Job done!!!

    I firstly removed the radiator shroud and fan. This allowed more room to access the balancer. As mentioned, I applied some penetrating oil to the nut then attached the socket with t-bar and secured the bar under the right chassis rail. Hit the starter motor momentarily to 'crack' the nut. Nut was finger tight and balancer then slid out.

    Taking off the pulley was quite easy. I found removing and replacing the radiator shroud to be the hardest part.

    Now I can actually check my valve lash...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
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    Good work. Glad yours was an easy one.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Sorrento Victoria
    Posts
    442
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    BTW- what size is the nut?

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