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And here's the tube nut that holds it all together. Shims slid over the output shaft of the ZF are fitted.. to take up any slight differences. Mine took a 10mm spacer ring. When bolted to the correct torque, and the transfer case is bolted tight to the conversion plate, I was able to still turn the input gear in the transfer case with the bottom plate removed.
And here it is all fitted up.
True sitec, but it wouldn't put the lt230 in its factory position, driveshafts would require modding
And from the top.. (Initial fit up before paint)
Output housing, as in the flange? Then yesQuote:
Originally Posted by Sitec
They are both bespoke on mine.. 110 rear shortened by approx 150mm on the front, and Ser 2 rear shortened by a lot on the rear. If you are trying to keep the transfer case in its original position, then the conversion plate is the critical part.. Two flanges mounted apart with a close coupled prop and a fixed conversion ring around the shaft would be my suggestion too. I had to get my transfer case as close to the gearbox as possible.. as in a 101" wheelbase, with a pair of Salisburys and an engine that has to be set back, it leaves little room for a transfer case and rear prop!! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
My flanges will be mounted back to back, which means bolted togethor
Then there's your bolting face for the conversion plate. Put the box back to std and use the handbrake drum studs.. With a piece of 10mm plate bolted to that and then a few stays welded to the plate and bolted back to the top/side of the box (a bit like the pic of the top of my conversion plate but longer) it won't go anywhere! You then have a flat mounting plate with a flange to work from.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
I think that'd work well. Easy to build a supporting conversion ring around it then..Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
Mines already built, just trying to make a new shaft, not a new conversion😊