Thread: Adaptor shaft

And here it is all fitted up.

True sitec, but it wouldn't put the lt230 in its factory position, driveshafts would require modding

And from the top.. (Initial fit up before paint)

Originally Posted by Sitec

Ooooh, that box lends itself to having a machined plate to match the original backplate and then a welded gear with those splines in the guts!! did the original output housing have the usual 4 x M12 studs to accept a handbrake drum?

Output housing, as in the flange? Then yes

Originally Posted by Vern

True sitec, but it wouldn't put the lt230 in its factory position, driveshafts would require modding

They are both bespoke on mine.. 110 rear shortened by approx 150mm on the front, and Ser 2 rear shortened by a lot on the rear. If you are trying to keep the transfer case in its original position, then the conversion plate is the critical part.. Two flanges mounted apart with a close coupled prop and a fixed conversion ring around the shaft would be my suggestion too. I had to get my transfer case as close to the gearbox as possible.. as in a 101" wheelbase, with a pair of Salisburys and an engine that has to be set back, it leaves little room for a transfer case and rear prop!!

My flanges will be mounted back to back, which means bolted togethor

Originally Posted by Vern

Output housing, as in the flange? Then yes

Then there's your bolting face for the conversion plate. Put the box back to std and use the handbrake drum studs.. With a piece of 10mm plate bolted to that and then a few stays welded to the plate and bolted back to the top/side of the box (a bit like the pic of the top of my conversion plate but longer) it won't go anywhere! You then have a flat mounting plate with a flange to work from.

Originally Posted by Vern

My flanges will be mounted back to back, which means bolted togethor

I think that'd work well. Easy to build a supporting conversion ring around it then..