Thread: Adaptor shaft

Originally Posted by workingonit

Had a thought.

Make a simple full length shaft, fully SAE10. No oil seal landing. In fact the shaft could be over length and cut back by those with different length cases. Maybe slightly waisted to create a failure point where you want it.

Transfer the oil seal landing to the adaptor drive flange.

Drill the adaptor drive flange to take the simple SAE10 shaft. The spline hole can be straight through but plated later to stop oil leaks and stop the shaft bumping the MSA drive shaft.

So attach your adaptor drive flange to the MSA drive flange.

Put on your case.

Insert your simple shaft.

Followed by the input gear if your a 1.22.

Given the drive shaft does not reach the pto cover, and to stop it floating to the pto cover, bung some obstruction into the space that is easily removed later.

You could use a draw bar to secure the shaft but what to do if the bolt breaks with the shaft? Can't get the last bit of bolt out to put in new shaft so back to removing whole transfer case.

Issues. Oil lubrication. Whether the adaptor drive flange at the oil seal area will be thick enough, my calcs showing about 6mm wall thickness.

This is what i have been saying from the start

Workingonit, going back to your last shaft drawing, if you were to cut the flange off where the 0 on sae10 is, do an internal spline all the way back to the msa flange and cap the end off, install a 1 shot grease or something, then for the shaft, make a shaft as per the rest of your drawing but with the oil seal ring on it.
I think this would work ok. Only problem i can see is oiling the adapter splines

Yep, agree.

Post 11 Isuzu defined it clearly for me and in 12 you confirmed that was what you wanted..

Post 14 Ancient argued against it. And I agree with my limited knowledge.

From that point on I felt Ancients design was the primary focus.

So I then started to look at how I could fit Ancients design into my Outcast casing.

That is when I began to think I do not have room to develop the drive flange spline. What to do?

Given the Outcast is the only unit from which I can draw real data I came up with my drawing.

I'm happy to claim you and Isuzu as my muses

As said elsewhere I'm not proposing to rework my Outcast shaft. I am going to run with it.

But seeing the unfortunate situation you were in really forced home the point to me that this is no off the shelf spare and I better consider doing something about it.

If a straight SAE10 could be made to stand up to the strains then I would go as you originally said, but buy myself a few floating shafts instead of just one.

Ancient has got the ball rolling. It would again be appreciated by us all if Ancient could pass the SAE10 idea to his friend for comment.

I have also started discussion with a machinist in Brisbane. I may also try and talk to Greg at Outcast to see if he will tell me the name of his axle manufacturer - but I must convince him that I am not trying to side step him and have Outcast adapter made with out his permission.

As said earlier I need some professional advice on whether the 6mm wall will hold up.

Sorry Mockey, yes I would love to do some real world testing, but that is probably 6 months away. And yes my plan will be to load the vehicle and give it a hard work out locally. Still would like a replacement of some sort though.

I could send it to Vern but I may never see it again

Agree, i am trying to take this design to sheldon, but as per, he is uncontactable, will just keep trying, but may have to address it myself.

And neither may mocky😆

Sorry Vern, re post 43, I don't follow. I understand where you want to cut, on the MSA side of the oil seal landing. But you lose me a bit after that.

Just to be clear my diagram is representative of the Outcast shaft only - no drawing of the MSA flange.

Keep in mind as per my earlier photos the MSA drive shaft protrudes into a bell chamber carved into the back of the Outcast adaptor shaft, with only bout 3 or 4 mm clearance.

Is it better to throw away all drive flanges and make just 1 adaptor shaft, involute for the MSA drive shaft and SAE10 for the input gear (probably like the 'late' Dougals). Myself not keen to subject the MSA shaft to sliding wear etc. As it is currently set up, the drive flange gets very well anchored under the torque applied to the lock nut.

When you get home please measure the overall length of the Sheldon adaptor shaft - that would be very helpful.

All the best to your family.