Thread: Adaptor shaft

Oops my bad, miss read the diameter of the 28 spline, so a ford axle won't work, it will have to be a custom axle, no big deal. Will get a few made.
But surely i can find what IS 28 spline in the correct diameter and keep as a reference

If your flange purchase works out then I may be interested in your custom axle. No one in Darwin cuts gears or conditions them. You thinking of welch plugging the end? I'm still assuming 28/SAE10.

The MXA is 28 - does that match your MSA output shaft or simply because you were banking on the ford axle? Mine is 20 spline. Not that it will worry me for the proposed application. But those who manage to get an MSA without the flange need to note there are differences.

A scaled drawing conveys the idea more easily and shows if it will actually fit. Just entertainment while someone comes up with a real solution. Although some stuff could provide you with a cheap homemade you keep in the tool box to get you out of trouble when travelling, is all. And a bit of a thought challenge to fit a uni joint when others say not possible. Not expecting anyone to try and build one of my pictures - although was tempted to subsidise boof ed when he contemplated the one below - just to see if it would work - I think it would given it is pretty much from the zf auto. But your solution may be slightly cheaper, depending on axle cost...but maybe not. I guess boof ed will want the flange you sourced and an axle.

I still think sitec's is a good idea if you have the time and resources. And Mariners a nice bit of kit, just not price competitive if your solution works.

As 85 county and lotza indicate, case alignment or compensating component for misalignment may be crucial to you Sheldon case guys if cracked and repaired.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...t-imgp3239.jpg

Originally Posted by workingonit

A scaled drawing conveys the idea more easily...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...t-imgp3239.jpg

This is a nice simple solution you have here. Have a flange turned up to match the Isuzu gearbox that you are using with a stub as drawn here.. Have the stub so its a press fit into the fine drive spline of the adaptor shaft pictured (already giving a percentage of drive if its a tight enough fit), press the flange home and run a tig weld around the outside where the flange meets the adaptor shaft. That way you effectively have a tube approx 45mm in dia with a weld around it.. It'll take a lot more power than the actual spline that fits into the LT. If you wanted to add more strength, tap the flange before you fit it and fit the original long bolt up the center of the adaptor shaft. Slide the LT onto the splines and make the conversion around it.

Thanks sitec.

oops didn't look at the picture. Thought you were following on after my other post incorporating your strong LT side.

You like welding

The whole thing is just a copy of the zf specs, but mounted on a flange. The little spud is also what is bolted to the zf - cheap and plentiful.

Torque bolt is same as zf. Allows easy field service.

Originally Posted by workingonit

Thanks sitec.

I think you really like welding

I wanted to combine your strength idea on the LT side, with a big splined 'boss' on flange side, and larger bolt to join them - field serviceable if you don't mind carrying a spare tube welded to an output gear for a few hundred I guess. But then whose going to break it!!! The picture could use a bit more tweaking to show the strength potential. To me just easier to solve the output shaft bearing.

Looking for an MSA now are we...

Im a welder boilermaker and diesel mechanic by trade, so yeah.. Done a bit.. Wised up tho and got into the sales side!! Re you're drawing, the shaft would break at the LT end before the weld would give. Those adaptor shafts were made out of some good stuff tho as they had to have the hole so it could be attached to the old Torquflite box.. (Which has just given me a thought.. I still have the alli conversion spacer plate that Land Rover made/used in the old Rangie auto's. can post a pic of that if its any use.. Re MSA.. Sorry, sadly Im not a fan of big 4 pots as they're very destructive due to the course torque delivery. I think that's why Im getting away with even bigger power.. The 6 pot under load at about 1200rpm is very smooth. I did look at a few Isuzu 6Bd1t's before settling in the Cummins.

Sorry sitec, you grabbed my incorrect response as a quote before I could correct it in time. See above your point for my correction.

Just to confuse things more have you seen this one yet?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...t-imgp3267.jpg

Originally Posted by workingonit

Sorry sitec, you grabbed my incorrect response as a quote before I could correct it in time. See above your point for my correction.

Just to confuse things more have you seen this one yet?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...t-imgp3267.jpg

Yes, and it would also work, but you'll be struggling to find someone who will be able to put that inner weld in there. Done right, with that boss pressed in and I thing you would be fine with just the outer weld. The LT230 input gear is not that hard, and is machinable. I had the splines bored out of mine to accept my tube nut. With this design, you would also be up for getting the shimming right between the two boxes so as to not load up the LT. Straight roller bearings are available to fit in place of the LT's two taper roller bearings, and I had thought about doing this, but the cheep ones are Chinese, and the good ones are very expensive. That's why I stuck with the original taper bearings and spent a bit of time shimming.

Didn't think of the issue of overloading the LT as you tighten the two halves via the draw bolt. But large torque may not be so important in this example as its being used to hold two spline sets together - or would that be a mistake to think so?

Provided your spare is identical, then a field fix should be no problem as you should already have the correct shims in place. And if in doubt lightly tighten the draw bolt with some loctite.

If you have time. Have you had experience with vacuum brazing I've seen offered by some Oz companies?