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Thread: Turbo pipe route

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    I've never understood why people have so much trouble posting pics.[*]Create a new thread[*]Scroll down until you see the Manage Attachments button.[*]Click it[*]When the new dialogue box opens, Browse for an image on your computer. Select it.[*]Upload the image.[*]Repeat as necessary (up to 5 images per post[*]Submit the new post[*]Done Note: if your images on your computer are too big, you'll have to resize them first. I usually resize to 800 pixels on the long side.
    I've always assumed some people browse to the image, select it but not click upload. I think a better user experience would be after selecting the file it just starts uploading. Why the extra step? If you accidentally select the wrong file you can always cancel it. That's my thoughts anyway.

    Now, back to turbos.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  2. #12
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    Started engine today.
    A few oil leaks, worst is the sump. It has a thick rubber gasket that came with the sump. Not sure if I have over tightened or not enough
    I haven't taken it for a drive yet but sitting in the shed running, the boost and EGT gauges have not moved. Is this normal? I have double checked all the connections, VDO gauges.
    When idling there is still a vacuum on the intake manifold, haven't tried revving it all the way but didn't seem to get any pressure at all when going up the revs.
    I also expected to hear more of a turbo whistle, not much.
    I have taken the hose off and the is a a air flow as it is revved but not a lot.
    I also took off the intake to check it is free spinning, no problem, and spinning fine when running.
    Wastegate is closed but not under tension.
    It is a Kinugawa TD04HL-19T.
    Any ideas or tips?

  3. #13
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    Need to drive it to get the boost gauge to move. May flicker a little.

  4. #14
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    Sump - Rubber gaskets get mixed reviews. Probably due to varying install procedures. It all sounded 50/50 to me, so I went for the simple option - sealed with RTV silicone only.

    Wastegate - You mean it's secured closed? Or just loosely? The exhaust gas will push it open and boost won't build if it's not secured.

    Even so, revving it at stand still won't give more than a few digits of boost. Maybe 2-3psi IIRC? Possibly not enough to register on a gauge. You should have no trouble hitting ~100*C EGT revving at stand still though.

    It's been too long since I started my isuzu with TD04HL-19T, but I do distinctly remember a whistle, even revving it at stand still. From above I'm wondering if your wastegate is loose and allowing all gas to bypass the turbine.

    I'm guessing a bit here, so I stand to be corrected.

    Alternatively both gauges aren't working because you have an electrical issue. And the turbo just needs to be driven to really do much.

    Good luck and let us know!
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  5. #15
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    Thanks guys.went out just before work and screwed the wastegate rod up two turns. It made all the difference! It now has a whistle, I can see pressure and the egt has got a little movement in it. I only have these 2 night shifts to go before a 3 week trip away. I was allowed to put a turbo on if it would be ready to go by this Wed. only have the dash, springs, wiring and brakes to go. And now the sump leaks.

  6. #16
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    With the sump, either rip the rubber gasket out and goo it up, or goo up the gasket. Think I had to replace the bolts when I turfed the rubber gasket on mine. Then get the rest of it done. You can tune it on the road.
    A good ratio I found when setting mine was for every half turn on the actuator rod, quarter turn on the fuel screw. Then when you get pretty close to what you want leave the fuel screw and just do the boost. Tune from your boost and get gauges, whilst checking your black smoke output.
    You'll begin to see how quick that Turbo spools up.

  7. #17
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    Hey mate,

    I kept my rubber gasket but used Permatex 82180 (Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker) on all mating surfaces to seal it up. It stopped the leaks.

    Infact after doing that I redid a heap of other stuff and now (touch wood) I don't have *any* oil leaks at all! (I keep checking if there is any oil in there though)
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  8. #18
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    Drove to work tonight. The rubber gasket has been tossed, I had some black sikoflex which has not seemed not to leak so far.
    I have been taking it steady so far, running at arouund 5-7 PSI and 450Deg at 100k up a long slight hill, topping out at 500 Deg at 10 PSI as I got more confidence. Lots of wind noise now I have all the engine bay insulated
    Got to a good start when I blew the turbo hose off, Im hoping I just didnt secure hose clamp propoly. Ive only had 1 1/2hrs sleep so I could forget to do some things
    I feels better already at these low pressures, the hill I go up I could normaly put my foot to the floor and make no differnce and now it powers away. Will be putting the camper on in the morning so will see what some weight does for it.

  9. #19
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    Wind that actuator in a couple of turns and the fuel screw out 1 and see how that goes. That's pretty low boost.
    At least you can tune it on the run now

  10. #20
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    Haven't moved anything yet, and done my first 200kms. I have a fair load and trailer and went over the local range. I hit 750 deg a couple of times still only 8 psi and was able to stay at 100 nearly all the way. I was over fueled a fair bit before so I won't touch that and will turn up waste gate a turn in the morning. I don't think there are any more good ranges from here at Taroom to Lightning Ridge. Great to be back on the road with stress behind
    Have had 7 hrs sleep in last 3 days but made it. Early bedtime now and re
    Lax.

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