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Thread: 6x6 4BD1T - engine mount width between chassis rails same as 110 4x4?

  1. #11
    Bearman's Avatar
    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    You probably won't find anything until the next auction this month, but there may or may not be any crew cab 6x6's in there. But they have been going for 23 - 28K plus gst and buyers premium. Some of them have been pretty good - I should probably have waited and got one of them instead of the single cab, but I am happy with what I have
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  2. #12
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    Yeah it would have to wait until the house sells and a new house happens, no time for another project😊.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    Chassis width would be way wider........would surprise me if they used the same engine mount that the 4x4 has but with an extended bracket.

    What year 130??
    1996 130 with QLD reg.

    I have a N/A perentie 4bdI engine (not the to be fitted, that will be a T engine) complete with engine mounts. Visually, bugger all difference between the 6x6 T motor mounts and the N/A engine mounts. I haven't measured the faces yet (distance between mount faces left and right) though.

  4. #14
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    Just today I started fitting my grays purchased ex-ADF 4bd1t from a 6x6 into my 200tdi 110 (same chassis width as your 130).
    I used original mounts already attached to the 4bd1t (including rubber mounts) and started fabricating up my own chassis mounts.

    The engine is a tight fit. Maybe 30mm between the power steering box and power steering pump on one side and on the other side maybe 30mm between the starter motor and the bottom corner of the firewall.

    I have used an LT95 (LT95A - 12C) that I believe came from an old RRC (although I was told otherwise)
    The motor/gearbox sits about 60mm further back than the 4bd1/tl95 in a perentie. I still haven't wrapped my head around why but the gearbox is sitting about 30mm from the drivers seatbox so it would be impossible for it to the 60mm forward (I would have preferred this).
    The rear tailshaft fits perfect, however I think I will have to use a D1 front prop as the distance to the diff is a little shorter.

    So far it's been a tough few days but good progress considering I only started pulling my 200tdi out 3 days ago.

    Hope this helps somewhat.

    cheers.


  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by lux201 View Post
    Just today I started fitting my grays purchased ex-ADF 4bd1t from a 6x6 into my 200tdi 110 (same chassis width as your 130).
    I used original mounts already attached to the 4bd1t (including rubber mounts) and started fabricating up my own chassis mounts.

    The engine is a tight fit. Maybe 30mm between the power steering box and power steering pump on one side and on the other side maybe 30mm between the starter motor and the bottom corner of the firewall.

    I have used an LT95 (LT95A - 12C) that I believe came from an old RRC (although I was told otherwise)
    The motor/gearbox sits about 60mm further back than the 4bd1/tl95 in a perentie. I still haven't wrapped my head around why but the gearbox is sitting about 30mm from the drivers seatbox so it would be impossible for it to the 60mm forward (I would have preferred this).
    The rear tailshaft fits perfect, however I think I will have to use a D1 front prop as the distance to the diff is a little shorter.

    So far it's been a tough few days but good progress considering I only started pulling my 200tdi out 3 days ago.

    Hope this helps somewhat.

    cheers.

    Thanks mate. Useful information indeed.
    Judging from you picture, the 4BD1T is sitting lower between the rails. I'll take a pick of the 110 perentie chassis half cut soon and post up. But distance wise your job is spot on. She is a tight fit yes? I'm surprised the rear propshaft aligns up length wise. Is the yoke part of the propshaft sitting in the same spot (on the splines) as before with the 200tdi five speed fitted?
    I'm interested to hear what you did with engine shut off solenoid or stop cable, and exhaust down pipe.
    I've got an airconditioning compressor to fit front left of the motor so clearances are going to be a headache.

  6. #16
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    These images taken from an orientation where the chassis half cut is sitting front end down on the concrete. Both left and right mounts are shown (left with half rubber engine mount still attached). Apparently, the vehicle to which this chassis belonged was driven into a rock wall at about 70km an hour at some sort of angle. Of course the vehicle was then driven home...
    I'm going to cut these off and plate them, and mount with crush tubes through the chassis.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #17
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    Alrighty I have the engine mounts finished. I found it easy just to make my own mounts out of 5mm flat bar. I put the engine into position and used cardboard to make a stencil, traced onto the 5mm plate, cut and welded. I think I may have gone a little overboard but am happy with the result.
    I would recommend fitting your chassis mounts to the engine first, then tacking into place with the engine in its spot. I was originally just going to use a jig or measure off a perentie but very glad I didn't as it would have been all wrong.
    I plan on using a cable to shut off the engine, perhaps an old choke cable and a spring on the solenoid. -Just like the old series (keeping with tradition). The solenoid is in the open position by default.

    I think I will have to extend my bumpstops to accommodate the engine being lower down, however when comparing it to the perentie it looks to be the same height -but I did also notice tat the perentie has lowered bump stops too. I'll just make up an extended bumpstop mount from rhs and weld it in.

    I also made up a mount for the factory A/C compressor today using the old 24-28v generator brackets.(i'll upload a pic shortly)

    I was thankful that the rear prop fits, I am still not sure about the front as I have loaned it out to a mate for a couple of days so he can diagnose his ongoing vibration issue (not like I need it at the moment anyway).
    I have a couple of props floating around. I have 2 D1 props, 2 110 props to suit the LT77 and a prop spacer. I also have access to a D2 dbl cardinal prop if needed. -I hope somewhere here I can find a "close-enough" match.

    Tomorrow I have some cleaning up to do, taking advantage of the engine being out. If I can source a thrust bearing and a clutch slave->fork pin then I should have everything back together by the weekend.


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