Pretty sure SteveG had posted the height of the front crank pulley to chassis somewhere on here.
May also be in a build thread by mike_ie
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Hi guys - well I carried on and stuck an R380 on the back of the Isuzu
With the help of a clever guy at a local machine shop, we used the Isuzu bell housing and made an adaptor to go between that and the gearbox - turned out quite nice..
Anyway putting the engine in today and I marked out the centre line of the old 300 Tdi to the front of the frame so I know it is good left right, but now I am foxed by the height of the engine before I make the mounts
Can anyone put a level between the wings and measure the height of the thermostat housing? ( I have the truck engine but have the 12 V angled starter which, although misses the frame, is still tight)
I made the filter extension but that is very close to the frame - is this right?
IMG_20170302_092131768_HDR (1).jpg
When we did the adaptor, we made a bush for the flywheel and then with all the guts out of the R380 we fitted a tube inside and used the gearbox end plate to clamp it to the first motion shaft which had a dummy bearing fitted so it was ridged and so what I am getting as is the length is correct (and cross fingers in line !)
Thanks in advance
Mike
Pretty sure SteveG had posted the height of the front crank pulley to chassis somewhere on here.
May also be in a build thread by mike_ie
Mine is 40mm from top of wings to thermostat mount face. The face that the outlet housing to the top hose bolts to.
Caveats: mine is a conversion, not a factory Isuzu, has an ex-stage1 engine, and I have checker plate on the wings so take about 4mm off that dimension for bare wings.
Thermostat face is 20mm above the top machined edge of the head in case yours is different housing to mine.
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
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						Many thanks!
I am really in the dark here and appreciate your help
Looks like I can get the beast welded in tomorrow – this is a left hand drive conversion and although tight close to the steering - it looks like it will fit
Just out of interest - I have the Disco servo fitted so plenty of room - however the dipstick may have to be shifted to the front – truck engine – is there a difference with the Defender engine?
Mike
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						Thanks for the info on the thermostat height
Just want to show some pics of why I am concerned
(BTW I have looked at other threads about this but I have switched to Firefox and now I cannot see images - which does not help - working on that right now)
Just seems so tight with the bonnet closed
I think this is the final position - if I lower it any further the starter will hit the frame - I have enough room right now to get the top hose on - just
I am on the centre line of the 300 Tdi - not much room to swing to the right as the oil filter will hit the frame
When I put the level on the rocker box it is true and level
I am using the R380 which is a nice fit into the crank - so I cannot go further back without playing with the props and changing the rear gearbox mounts etc
IMG_20170401_115417637.jpg IMG_20170401_115658208.jpg IMG_20170401_115410056.jpg IMG_20170401_115517624.jpg
Odd looking thermostat housing arrangement in your pic there.
Mine clears the bonnet by a 1/4 inch- with hood lining on bonnet as a witness mark.
You could always massage the bonnet frame section a bit I guess.
BTW Don't forget to install lengthened axle bump stops up front.
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						This engine was out of a cab forward GMC truck in Canada - like a flat bed tow truck
First one I have seen, but I didn’t know until I got into this project how many Isuzu variants there are!
Anyway, today I lifted the motor to 40mm as suggested and then stuck a lump of plasticine in the top of the thermostat and closed the bonnet - I have almost 8mm clearance.
However I have a few options = I am thinking of using the V8 radiator so maybe I could turn the thermostat housing and point it forwards and then it is a simple 90 degree bend to the rad OR cut and TIG weld the outlet of the thermostat down
Unfortunately, I have not seen any thermostat housing variants
Also I can trim the bonnet frame a bit - I have a chequer plate reinforcement on my bonnet which spreads the weight of the spare
Thank you for your reply
Mike
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