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Thread: Material differences btween a NPR 4BD1T and a ex-army 4BD1?

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dervish View Post
    Which math is that?

    101kW ATW would be ~180kW at the flywheel, so as far as I can see it's plausible. Highly unlikely I have to say - in fact I would say impossible in this case - but not from those figures; from limitations within the injection pump. I'm no guru myself, but I know the people that have spent more time with 4BD1Ts on dynos than anyone else and I know that without making serious changes in the pump you aren't getting that power or torque. And I don't mean just adjusting the max fuel screw, although you would just about have to take it off and throw it away as part of the process as well. There's a limitation within the pump that I've never seen anyone else mention, so I doubt very much anyone is making significantly more out of 4BD1s than KLR do. There's a lot of armchair engineers plugging data into formulas and coming up with impressive numbers, but the real world isn't so simple.

    To be honest, I think your mate (Damien) couldn't interpret the results his dyno gave him. Incredibly common even amongst people who operate them unfortunately.

    But hey, I could be wrong. I suspect we'll never know.
    The guy with the dyno is Rovercare from here, now if you know any of his past work, he knows what he is doing.

    Plus he had a perentie on the dyno as well, running klr turbo kit, fuel screw out further than they suggest and 26psi boost, he make 96kw at the wheels.

    As for mine, td04hl-19t turbo, Plazmaman water to air, fuel screw removed, afrs 22:1, 28psi boost.

    At the time we couldn't get anymore fuel into it, have since removed the fuel rack limiter stopper bolt which has given it much more power in the mid and upper range.
    As for not making those kw, there have been others on the perentie facebook pages that with similar tunes are making similar power.
    Theoretically the pump with maximum fueling is good for around 300hp.
    As for klr, they advised me i couldn't get anymore out of my pump (pre fuel rack limiter mod) and told me i had to buy another pump, off them of course! Typical klr. They also mentioned there turbo isn't that great, but it suits what 95% of perentie owners want.
    I suggested the rack limiter mod to one of the guys from Davis Performance Landies for his, he was amazed at how much more power and how much better it went.
    Klr tune theres very conservatively too,
    82kw with a small adjustment of the fuel screw and i think mid to high teens in the boost department.
    So why do you not believe another 20 kw can be extracted with a lot more boost and fuel added?

    Whats your experience and findings with the 4bd1t?

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
    I suspect you are mixing up wheel torque with engine torque. You can't have 650 Nm torque and only 101 kW. The math does not work.
    I never said it was wheel torque. The kw are at the wheels measured on a dyno, the 650Nm is speculated flywheel torque from people in the know.
    I am trying to find out what the tractable effort was.

  3. #43
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    Only dyno pic he has is of it making 100.3kw at the wheels. Will post it up later

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    The guy with the dyno is Rovercare from here, now if you know any of his past work, he knows what he is doing.

    Plus he had a perentie on the dyno as well, running klr turbo kit, fuel screw out further than they suggest and 26psi boost, he make 96kw at the wheels.

    As for mine, td04hl-19t turbo, Plazmaman water to air, fuel screw removed, afrs 22:1, 28psi boost.

    At the time we couldn't get anymore fuel into it, have since removed the fuel rack limiter stopper bolt which has given it much more power in the mid and upper range.
    As for not making those kw, there have been others on the perentie facebook pages that with similar tunes are making similar power.
    Theoretically the pump with maximum fueling is good for around 300hp.
    As for klr, they advised me i couldn't get anymore out of my pump (pre fuel rack limiter mod) and told me i had to buy another pump, off them of course! Typical klr. They also mentioned there turbo isn't that great, but it suits what 95% of perentie owners want.
    I suggested the rack limiter mod to one of the guys from Davis Performance Landies for his, he was amazed at how much more power and how much better it went.
    Klr tune theres very conservatively too,
    82kw with a small adjustment of the fuel screw and i think mid to high teens in the boost department.
    So why do you not believe another 20 kw can be extracted with a lot more boost and fuel added?

    Whats your experience and findings with the 4bd1t?
    I can't find the tag for the vid of Matt's 130 hybrid thing with the mega modded 4BDIT going from go to 120.............. but it sure used to silence the critics.

    It'll be in a post I've put up before.

    DL

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    I can't find the tag for the vid of Matt's 130 hybrid thing with the mega modded 4BDIT going from go to 120.............. but it sure used to silence the critics.

    It'll be in a post I've put up before.

    DL
    It did, ours would be very similar in power, both similar boost/fuel/ and afrs

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    It did, ours would be very similar in power, both similar boost/fuel/ and afrs
    Was shot on a mobile from memory.

    I'll find the link when I get time.

    DL

  7. #47
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    Pretty sure this was the link:

    http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ent=002-61.mp4

    Now sadly another bucket down the drain.

    DL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    From my experience, the 5g works great with a 1.003 transcase and 33" or smaller tyres, but i did find it just a fraction tall for towing on hills.

    The msa5r works great with a 1.192 or 1.222 transcase and 33's or bigger tyres, even when towing.

    I did find the 5g and a 1.222 tcase geared to low in particularly 1st and all the mid range gears. Hence me swapping in a 5r box, which i am very happy with.
    Thanks for the advice...I've been tardy responding as I've been up to my ears in this engine swap business. The newly acquired 4BD1 is almost stripped and the Td5 is ready to pull once I clear some space in the shed.

    With your experience from above I think I should be aiming to hit 2100-2200 rpm at 110.....although:

    It's either the 5R & 1.222 for 2318 rpm@110 or the 5G & 1.003 for 2028 rpm@110, running my preferred tyre size of 235/85R16.

    I took your advice and have had a couple of long chats to Sheldon....he is a great chap and a wealth of knowledge, it will be hard to go past what he offers.

    I'll start a build thread later to compile my experiences and mistakes for others to use.....and provide advice if they are so inclined.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fubar View Post
    Thanks for the advice...I've been tardy responding as I've been up to my ears in this engine swap business. The newly acquired 4BD1 is almost stripped and the Td5 is ready to pull once I clear some space in the shed.

    With your experience from above I think I should be aiming to hit 2100-2200 rpm at 110.....although:

    It's either the 5R & 1.222 for 2318 rpm@110 or the 5G & 1.003 for 2028 rpm@110, running my preferred tyre size of 235/85R16.

    I took your advice and have had a couple of long chats to Sheldon....he is a great chap and a wealth of knowledge, it will be hard to go past what he offers.

    I'll start a build thread later to compile my experiences and mistakes for others to use.....and provide advice if they are so inclined.
    If your not going to be towing a loaded trailer, then go for the 5g box and 1.003 transcase

  10. #50
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    Besides the obvious defects....I think this pictures does a good job of illustrating the key difference between the 4BD1 and the Td5.

    The Isuzu rod is a result of a gutful of water and the reason my newly acquired engine would not spin. The Td5 rod has a slight tweak on the little end due to coolant leaking in past a head gasket failure....this engine still ran without any indication the rod was bent. The plumes of white fog and constant coolant consumption near the end was a dead giveaway though that something was amiss.


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