Do you know if that jackaroo starter is the same as the diesel rodeos? I have a rodeo one sitting around, and the 4bd1 2bolt as well, I can see if the pinion can be interchangedQuote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
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Do you know if that jackaroo starter is the same as the diesel rodeos? I have a rodeo one sitting around, and the 4bd1 2bolt as well, I can see if the pinion can be interchangedQuote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
or leave the starter there, put in a 12v battery to run the ignition and lights and bits an pieces you want on 12V and buy 2 of
DC-DC Boost Buck Step Up Down Converter Module 3.3V 12V 24V Solar Charger Power | eBay
them.
configure them to charge the 12V battery from the 24v battery or vice versa depending on if your running the 12 or 24v ignition and electrics.
Its one of the few times a DC-DC charger is the appropriate answer to a battery question.
No I havnt actually seen one to compare.Quote:
Originally Posted by paulthepilot_5
The others seem to vary by how much the solenoid sticks out to the side. Most are too far. My 24 volt one the solenoid is close, but just far eno to get the top bolt in.
Yes Dave I am thinking leave the starter 24 volts. Its over 3KW and the others are just over 2KW.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
I bought a 12/24 volt series parallel switch but gave up on it because of the complicated wiring. Thinking about going back to it.
I think Dougal and Bush kept theirs 24 volt.
Keith
you dont need it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
if the 24v is only going to run your starters grab a pair of n45's put em in series hook em to the starter. use a 12v relay to drive the 24v to the 24v aux solenoid and thats your 12v starter system.
wire about 7-10A of dc dc 12-24v charger(s) on a DPDT isolation realy in place via either a VSR driven relay or an igntion switched source and viola your set.
if you do it by a vsr charging all of your batteries becomes as simple as putting on your existing 12v charger on the 12v system.
Still have not got an alternator yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
This ex NPR 4BD1 I have has 80mm between the alternator legs. The one in my 110 is 100mm and the spare in the shed is 100 mm. I had not noticed this before.
I thought then I would swap the alternator mounting bracket over to get the easy to find 100 mm one to bolt up but the mounting holes on the block are different. The timing covers are different as well.
It seems there are a few differences in 4BD1 block castings over the years
Another thing. The thermostat housing on the spare and the one on my 110 is offset to the right of the tappet cover. The one on this engine I am working on is in line directly to the front of the tappet cover , with differences in the ports for heater pipes etc.
Hitachi LR170-401 is the 12V 70A one that is one the army motors Keith. From memory I think they are the 100mm leg spacing. Any sparkie or Ashdown/Ingrams should be able to cross reference that number. I'm sure you could modify the mount to fit. The thermostat housing offset differences are between industrial and automotive applications, and are not interchangeable because of bolt spacings and numbers where it bolts to the head. I have some new industrial ones like on the army 4x4 motors if you need one.Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
Thanks Brian . my sparkie is still looking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
So which is which re the thermo housings, I thought all mine were ex NPR?
Keith
All the automotive ones I have seen have the thermostat housing on the RH side or in the middle of the rocker cover. Industrial engines like in the army 4x4 have the thermo housing on the left side.