Hi Keith Have you tried it on 12 volts ?
Noel
I am refurbishing my old FC with a 4BD1 and adding a turbo. It had an exhaust brake I fitted years ago but when I built the 6x6 I pinched the 12 volt controller to fit on it.
Now I am building up a new 3 inch pipe I want to refit a bigger EB, I bought a butterfly off a wrecker but it had no solenoid and the only ones I can find are 24 volt.
Rang a few wreckers but they are not really interested in helping unless I go and look.
Anyone any ideas where to get one?
exhaust brake controller by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/]
Here is the one I have I pulled off the 6x6 for a photo.
Keith
Hi Keith Have you tried it on 12 volts ?
Noel
Noel, that photo is the 12 volt one I pulled off the 6x6. The 24 volt ones are small with 1/4 inch OD nylon pipes like the difflocks have.
This has 3/8 ID.
Old Canters and Coasters had them .
These old ones operated big vac cylinders while the newer 24 volt ones use smaller to match the smaller line size.
I can get one of these mini ones in 12 volt but just have to find someone that will sell me the cylinder.
Something like this.
![]()
That "Gearing Dynamics" 3" Landcruiser ex brake pictured above is the exact kit I have on my iveco, been completely trouble free.
Ive always had thoughts of making my own (or getting one machined), really its just a butterfly on a pivot like a throttle body. Then some sort of lever/actuator to turn the butterfly.
If you are putting it a series or a 101 you could even make it primitive and have a lever in the cab![]()
I cant work out why they use a 12 to 24 volt inverter when a 12 volt version of the switching solenoid is available.
Back in the early 90,s when I cobbled my first version up I used a brake booster as an actuator and it worked very well.
Now I am reading stuff on the internet I come across stuff such as be carefull not to give it too much pressure or the exhaust will hold the exhaust valves open and cause them to strike the pistons. That never occured to me back then. It seems some put stronger valve springs in to counteract this.
I have never had the head off a 4BD1 but is it possible that if the valve was open a bit it would get piston strike.
Even open a fraction would be enough to drop the pressure and let the valve close. I dont know how much room there is in there.
Just ebay exhaust brake, theres heaps on there i just looked. Some isuzu also but you could rig up anything really
Yes, pulling on it by hand would give feedback on the pressure involved. On the EB,s operated by air pressure they limit some to 50lbs depending on the engine. That way they wont open the valves. I dont think vacuum gets near there.
The 3 inch butterfly I just bought from the wrecker for $20. Its the 12 volt switching solenoid that is the problem ATM
Would a domestic irrigation solenoid suit your purpose?
Aaron
you can use any 4 way air valve you like and then use this to control it, doing it with vacuum means this wont work and you need an air solenoid designed to work with vacuum.
if you're using a spring loaded self returning actuator on pressure then this you only need a 3 way valve.
to resolve the excesive back pressure issue you need to do a few things.
1. the pivot needs to be just off center
2. the short side needs to be the side that turns towards the engine side of the exhaust
3. cut a short section or drill some holes in the short side equal to aproximately 1/15th of the total exhaust pipe area at the smallest upstream point.
4. set the lever up so that when the exhaust is open the lever is close to 90 degrees to the pipe and when its applied its close to parallel
5. make sure the flap is ovaled slighty and doesnt get closer than about 80 degress to being perpendicular to the flow.
Dave
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