Thread: PIGLET...

Originally Posted by Phil B

Sounds like it would be easier to install an EDIC system similar to the Perentie.

I do have a brand new edic motor here, but like the novelty of the pull cable

Here is a pic I was sent of the correct ignition switch assy. You can see the stop cable which is on top of the switch. The key will turn off and to the lock position but it will not come out till the cable is locked into the off position. That is the purpose of this style lock assy.

Psk1313 or psk 1314, i had to look it up as i have never seen this setup before, my stage3 series1 isuzu didn't have this either

That is what is fitted to my s3 stage1 Isuzu. Maybe yours has been changed. My stage 1 only has 53k on it and is original, but the switch was worn out prob coz it spent most it's life on the farm. Lots of stop start stuff I expect. Steel shaft interfacing with soft aluminium barrel turning it. The interior is in reasonable condition which is good as it has black cloth seats. The door tops are completely rust free which is surprising. These seem to support the very low mileage to me. Also the fact that the engine and gearbox feel very tight unlike my perentie.

Maybe mine did, it was a long time ago, but i recall the pull cable under the dash, must have been broken.

Well we got some fine weather today. So i got the replacement roof out of storage, ( leaning against the fence in the back yard), and made up a patch for the hole where it used to have a roo shooting spottie fitted. This is the straightest cab roof ive ever seen. So i put a patch on the inside ans a corresponding patch on the outside, sealed with roof and gutter silicone neutral cure. 4 sealed rivets to hold them together. Job done. Found a cable hole as well and used a Holden window regulator rivet and an alloy head of the same type of rivet,( same materials), and sealed that too with the same silicone. Then I got busy removing the roof of piglet and screen. They are still sitting in situ, coz ran out of time. Will do the swap tomorrow maybe. Need to repair some broken spot welds on the back section of the cab where the vibrations of the mighty 4BDI have taken their toll. The whole back panel is flexing a fair bit. Some sealed rivets will fix it. Won't look out of place on this beast. Got to fix 2 broken welded bolts that hold the roof to the seatbelt shoulder brackets. No biggie. See how I go tomorrow. Cheers for now.

Today I got the roof off. Pulled the screen off too. Found a dollar. So it only cost me $999. now. I removed the tray's top bar and also took off the rear cab part. Those sliding windows are very hard to remove, especially when the Bailey channels are rusted. But I got them out. I removed the side curved windows too. Went and got the glass seals from Clark rubber. Got 2 lengths of Bailey channel from rare "rip of" spares. Fitch couldn't get them for 3 weeks and bit hard to get them from England atm. $75.00 a length. . Should have enough to do the rear sliding windows and maybe the top and sides on the door tops. Got 2 original bottom channels for the door tops with the slots for locking the windows. Will put some very thin waterproof foam strip on top of the windscreen seal and bottom too, to help original seals to seal better. Will put some sealer on the top n bottom cab seals, to help them. Bit more work to do while the weather is good. Cheers. Club meeting tonight. LRRegSA.

Another great day. I found the rear cab section was very loose and flexible. A lot of the spot welds were broken around the back windows. How do you fix broken spot welds? Drill and rivet them of course. So about 50 odd sealed rivets later, I had a solid rear cab section. Now I can work on assembling the rear sliding windows. What a bugger of a job. Worse was trying to remove old tinting that had gone purple. Any way got the tint off and was able to remove the locks, carefully. So i assembled the lower track part that is galvanised. Fitted two Bailey channels that I cut from the 2.5 meter length that I bought from rare spares. Glued them in to place with sikaflex. Then fitted them and screwed them in place with stainless philips head screws. Refitted the strip to the cab. Then screwed and glued the side channels and one spacer. I fitted the sliding glass and the two top Bailey channels to the cab section. Glued them in place and screwed them in too. Bloody messy stuff that sikaflex. Gets everywhere. I'd had enough by 3.30. Packed up and cleaned up. Took a few pics. Hope the glass doesn't get glued to the channels. Still need to assemble the locks and tracks. Then have to fit the curved glass. Cheers. Lots of pain in both legs and feet. Need pain killers...lol.