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Thread: Inj pump timing ''worth the hassle''

  1. #1
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    Inj pump timing ''worth the hassle''

    Hey folks.

    I am hoping some of you have played with the pump timing since it was last discussed on here.

    So do the benefits outweigh the hassles of doing it.

    Are we getting a noticable increase in power or is it only a ''bees dicks'' worth only visible on a dyno.


    thanks in advance

    Justin

  2. #2
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    Everything is relative, but I didn't think it was that much of a hassle. Just work out where your timing is now and mark your starting point, then start adjusting. You might get quite a bit more power, but even if you don't, at least you'll know you're getting what you should be.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_S View Post
    Everything is relative, but I didn't think it was that much of a hassle. Just work out where your timing is now and mark your starting point, then start adjusting. You might get quite a bit more power, but even if you don't, at least you'll know you're getting what you should be.
    Well we did it with minimal tools in a carpark in Guatemala - so can't be that much of a hassle. I do recall we had to borrow a socket extension from the mechanic across the street though???

    But yes - it can make a difference. If the timing is out it can mean higher EGTs, lower popwer, etc... Over time as everything wears slightly your timing will retard a little bit, so if your engine and pump have 300k km on the clock and have never been touched, then tweaking the timing a bit won't hurt.

    But - the inner two bolts are a HUGE PITA to access.

  4. #4
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    But - the inner two bolts are a HUGE PITA to access.[/quote]


    Thats the reason I asked. have advanced it once but could;nt tell if it performed better, but had no EGT gauge then, so maybe will give it another shot.

    Justin

  5. #5
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    If your've advanced it once already then it wont help, I did alot of playing around with timing. Trying differant methods, advances,and injectors. Did puck all (not on a dyno however).
    If your pump is graphed for a turbo the set the advance recomended and forget about it. Time is spent better elsewhere mate.

    Those rumors about advancing the pump one tooth are exactly that "rumors", when I tried it the car ran like it was on two cylinders and sounded like a Massy Furgason.

    Hope this helps a little Justin

  6. #6
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    Timing

    Quote Originally Posted by Larns View Post
    If your've advanced it once already then it wont help, I did alot of playing around with timing. Trying differant methods, advances,and injectors. Did puck all (not on a dyno however).
    If your pump is graphed for a turbo the set the advance recomended and forget about it. Time is spent better elsewhere mate.

    Those rumors about advancing the pump one tooth are exactly that "rumors", when I tried it the car ran like it was on two cylinders and sounded like a Massy Furgason.

    Hope this helps a little Justin
    yep a while back I did the old advance method untill the fuel rises in no1 injector line. probably adjusted too many things at once to tell the differance (its a male thing hey). then put it back to the original marks. So this time may advance it and see if it reduces the EGT's a bit.

    Justin

  7. #7
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    I've run the timing in about four different places recently. Just for curiosities sake.

    Overly advanced it's noisier at idle and has problems sustaining boost. You can find yourself in situations on hills where EGT's climb faster than boost, causing you to back off for the engines sake when you should be able to accelerate freely. EGT's at cruise dropped a few degrees (like 10-20C).
    I didn't leave it that far advanced for long.

    Back a little from there (still advanced from the mark), the turbo responds better but idle is still noisey and something is rumbling under load around 1500rpm.
    Retarded from the mark, boost rises more quickly keeping EGT's down but starting is more difficult and it puffs grey smoke at idle when cold.

    So the best position I've found is with the marks lining up.

  8. #8
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    timing is only really important for tuning and repairing and sets the start point for injection, once thats right its best to leave it alone.

    ID be checking the timing on a service and playing with it only if it was out or you had other modifications that would benifit from changing it.

    Since the injection only occours once the cylinders are closed off from the exhaust and the intake it only effects when the fire actually gets started in the pot and thats it. Of course there are knock on gains to be had from later or earlier firing that depend on engine speed, cylinder air charge (boost pressure) and how hot your willing to run the exhaust but its a fine balance between them and engine longevity, fuel consumption and total power output.

    If its stock set it stock and leave the timing alone although tweaking the plunger will net you more power as its in control of the duration of the injection not the start point of it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  9. #9
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    So what're the theories surrounding injection timing vs engine load?

    For example, how does optimal timing at 1/3 load cruising differ from optimal timing at full load?
    I'd imagine a large dose of fuel takes a slightly longer time to inject and burn, so part load ends up slightly more advanced relative to full load.
    How does boost and in cylinder air temps affect it?

  10. #10
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    there is an automatic advance that takes care of the timing advancement as engine speeds increase. But as you inject more fuel it burns for longer from about the same effective starting point..

    for the sake of this discussion I'll state injection as being statically set to TDC its not IRL but it makes it easy for the purpose of explination

    if you dont need a lot of power and your idling then your injection is at TDC and you get a little bit of fuel burning and it pushes the piston down for lets say 1/4 of its stroke as its burning and then the remaining distance is done by the thermal expansion of the gas, when it hits BDC then the exhaust valve opens and whats left (which isnt much) expands out into the exhaust system to help spin the turbo as the pistion starts coming up.

    so now when your screaming along and your coasting on a slight down hill and using just enough power to maintain speed (again magically this will require exactly the same quantity of fuel as idling) your still injecting the same amount of fuel but you need it earlier so by the time the fire gets going the piston is at TDC and then exactly the same as before you get 1/4 of a stroke of burning power and 3/4 of expansion before the exhaust opens and the gasses go on their merry way to annoy some greeny in an electric car.

    so thats what the auto advance does moves the start time of injection in the same way that the timing advances in a petrol engine with speed but without the hassle of having to retard it if you have low manifold pressure, Why? because the manifold pressure of a diesel is alway at about 1 atmosphere and never below it. (well not by enough to have to worry about vac advance)

    So when you want more power you need more fuel and the 2 ways of doing this are by raising the injection pressure which means more fuel in a set period which is what the new electronic and hydraulicly controlled injectors do but you dont have them so you have to lenghten the injection time.

    IF you did that by moving the start of the injection cycle then the engine can try to run backwards (piston being pushed down against the inertail motion of the engine) every time it fires. This can actually be achieved in some diesel engines but generally not very well and its quite impressive to see the look of shock when a truckie cant work out why he now has 18 reverse gears 2 forwards and his aircleaner is belching the white smoke of a diesel running on low compression. The real side effect of moving the injection too far forwards (before top dead center) is that it will knock and excessive diesel knock is generally a recipie for pistions trying to turn themselves inside out, bent rods, smashed bearings, bent cranks, dropped cranks and bits that should be internal becoming exernal. Most fequently its a bit of all of the above. So the simple solution is to leave the start time alone and just increase the duration of the injection cycle. Thats not to say it cant be done some engines move the start time and some others move both.

    But Ive meandered off the track. (and some would say onto an entirely different section of the map book)

    So were stuck with increasing the duration of the injection

    so with the engine idling along and your foot flat to the boards (ignoring the other influences on injection like the govenor and the boost compensator) your injection is starting at TDC and then instead of burning the fuel for 1/4 of the stroke its buring it for near on 15/16ths of the stroke leaving just a little bit at the bottom for the flame to go out so your not putting fire down the pipes and into the turbo (which is cool if you want glowing exhaust manifolds, burning the valves killing the turbo and while providing some Huge power to spin the turbo and make boost levels that most people would read as tyre pressures) when the exhaust valves open again at BDC.

    The best part of this is that due to the circular motion of the crank when the piston is at about halfway the relative position of the crank means that as it passes 1/2 way the crank is providing the biggest lever it can to the piston and with the fire still on and the combustion process really cranking you get the most power you can get and anything left over is going to be useful at providing drive but more useful for driving the turbo..

    And surprisingly given that the time it takes for the burn to start at higher RPMS with a larger injection quantity is the same as we're not injecting the fuel any faster (faster injection requires higher injection pressures) at higher RPMS we just inject the fuel at the same relative time as a high speed low power setting and let it burn longer. simple hey.

    Turboing engines as opposed to NA engine do have different timing requirement but since we're only talking about a turbo engine and not modifying one from being turbo to na or vice versa its not a big problem for this topic.

    is that helpful?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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