Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 66

Thread: LT95 Overdrive

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The cheapest way to get taller gearing is fit larger tyres. 255/85-16s should fit with only a slight cut and shut to the exhaust. 35's need more work.

    Swapping diff ratios gets expensive. Especially for a salisbury.

    I assume you already have 0.996:1 T-case high range already?

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    IF you really want more top end. source some 3.1:1 or better CWP sets and then put in the lower speed tcase gears
    ??? AFAIK the tallest ratio available for the Sals/D60 is 3.54:1. The SD1 has rover diffs in 3.08:1 and 2.8:1, but that is no help if you can't get a matching rear.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    The cheapest way to get taller gearing is fit larger tyres. 255/85-16s should fit with only a slight cut and shut to the exhaust. 35's need more work.

    Swapping diff ratios gets expensive. Especially for a salisbury.

    I assume you already have 0.996:1 T-case high range already?



    ??? AFAIK the tallest ratio available for the Sals/D60 is 3.54:1. The SD1 has rover diffs in 3.08:1 and 2.8:1, but that is no help if you can't get a matching rear.
    Hi Ben, The Sd1 has 'salisbury' type rear ends dont they? with a watts link or similar like the XE falcon? actually Looks a bit like the XE falcon borg warner diff from memory...

    Hmmm, Memory

    Anyway, the overdrive will self destruct in 10 seconds behind the Isuzu, I have thought about using a Laycock type unit from a Volvo 740 Turbo 'box. These are similar to the GKN overdrives for defender LT230's, but a little smaller. I was only going to use mine when cruising on the flat, but then, with all that torque and towing a camper, I might just want to USE it.... And I can see THAT destructing too. Just face it. The Isuzu with a turbo on it will destroy most LR boxes except a TRLT95, so we just have to run 33" tyres minimum and stay under 130km/hr


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Hi Ben, The Sd1 has 'salisbury' type rear ends dont they? with a watts link or similar like the XE falcon? actually Looks a bit like the XE falcon borg warner diff from memory...

    Hmmm, Memory
    JC - you are probably right - I know very little about rover cars, only that a few models have landie diffs - I thought the SD1 was one of them... Must have been wrong.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post



    ??? AFAIK the tallest ratio available for the Sals/D60 is 3.54:1. The SD1 has rover diffs in 3.08:1 and 2.8:1, but that is no help if you can't get a matching rear.

    I didnt say stick with rover diffs....

    about the quickest ratio I know of in a diff is about 2.6:1 but its not all that tough. and I wouldnt put one in...

    that said Im not into speed and Id be going the other way running 4.7:1 and just taking my sweet time since my plan to liver forever is thus far right on track I reckon I can afford to slow down.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Clifton Springs, Vic.
    Posts
    841
    Total Downloaded
    0
    So, has anyone actually tried putting an overdrive behind an Isuzu. Or are these only opinions. (well informed opinions I believe)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Eyre Peninsula SA
    Posts
    259
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If I might offer my two bobs worth: try an overdrive behind an Isuzu and see how it goes. I have heard a lot of theories about the longevity or otherwise of various Landrover transmissions behind Isuzus eg an R380 won't last the distance - yet when I speak to people who are driving vehicles with the various transmissions fitted I find out that they have not had significant problems. So try an overdrive - in good condition - drive with a bit of mechanical sympathy and we might all be surprised at how long it lasts.

    MyR380 seems to handling a 4BD1T without any problems (over 20000ks now - heaving towing - long distance fully loaded) - the torque rating of the box is significantly above the torque output of the engine.

    Christopher

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    FWIW

    the thing that lets the suzi eat a gearbox is its torque impulse at or near idle especially if loaded up and "chugging"

    the rapid acceleration and deceleration of the shafts makes the helical cut gears change thrust loadings significantly which is sort of the equivelent of using a jack hammer on your bearings over time. If Ive still got them the piccy's of the dead box from brian hejlms county (lt85) provide a perfect illustration of this. I cut the front off of the fubar input shaft to make a clutch alignment tool but he might still have the bits and be able to take some more pics of exactly what turns to swarf behind the isuzu.

    a short term solution to the problem is to up the idle speed of the suzi. of course a pure square cut box would be my long term solution, no thrust loading of the shafts then. (just woefull tooth contact to worry about)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Clifton Springs, Vic.
    Posts
    841
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The way i drive, it (the overdrive) would only be engaged in 4th gear at highway speed to reduce rpm and noise. Be nice to have a conversation without yelling.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    not quite...

    those bolt in overdrives are always engaged, they replace the input gear that slides onto the output shaft of the gearbox if the bolt in overdrive has a catclysmic failure unless youve still got your origingal drive gear (and the OD hasnt taken out what I call the idler gearset) you aint going nowhere.

    they usually whine and howl like a banshee before they let go so you do get a wrnaing.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Eyre Peninsula SA
    Posts
    259
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    FWIW

    the thing that lets the suzi eat a gearbox is its torque impulse at or near idle especially if loaded up and "chugging"

    the rapid acceleration and deceleration of the shafts makes the helical cut gears change thrust loadings significantly which is sort of the equivelent of using a jack hammer on your bearings over time. If Ive still got them the piccy's of the dead box from brian hejlms county (lt85) provide a perfect illustration of this. I cut the front off of the fubar input shaft to make a clutch alignment tool but he might still have the bits and be able to take some more pics of exactly what turns to swarf behind the isuzu.

    a short term solution to the problem is to up the idle speed of the suzi. of course a pure square cut box would be my long term solution, no thrust loading of the shafts then. (just woefull tooth contact to worry about)

    Dave

    Thanks for your comments - it seems to that the major issue is allowing the engine revs to drop down too far - easy to do given the way the Isuzu pulls at low revs - keep the revs up a bit say above 1500 in the intermediate gears, and above 18-1900 in fifth and gearbox life should be reasonable

    Christopher

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!