Thread: Well we made it home! thats gotta be a good start!

Maggot and I have 120amp direct fit ones, Internal reg and all.

I'll get some part numbers off it and post it up if you need to fit a bigger one. From memory, it was around $600, and came complete with vac pump etc.

JC

Originally Posted by rovercare

1. same as the 70A jobbies

do they normally have a "w" terminal so you can run a tacho?

Originally Posted by incisor

do they normally have a "w" terminal so you can run a tacho?

Mine doesn't appear that way

I'll do a write up, when I go into the alternator and hook it up, but that could be ages away, just remember, if it don;t rev no more, you've hit the fuel governor.......change gear up 1

Originally Posted by justinc

Maggot and I have 120amp direct fit ones, Internal reg and all.

I'll get some part numbers off it and post it up if you need to fit a bigger one. From memory, it was around $600, and came complete with vac pump etc.

JC

*shudders*

Originally Posted by rovercare

just remember, if it don;t rev no more, you've hit the fuel governor.......change gear up 1

aint that the truth!

what rpm do people set their idle at? and how do they tell that it is right?

it would appear to me, that a little bit faster is better with these engines?

also, pray tell, when the clutch engages at the top of the pedal does that mean it is closer to the finish than the start? should i budget for a not to distant clutch replacement?

Originally Posted by incisor

aint that the truth!

what rpm do people set their idle at? and how do they tell that it is right?

it would appear to me, that a little bit faster is better with these engines?

also, pray tell, when the clutch engages at the top of the pedal does that mean it is closer to the finish than the start? should i budget for a not to distant clutch replacement?

Just idle it up a touch so it don't shake like a barstood

When the clutch slips, it's time for replacement, wouldn't concern myself otherwise, as its a case of, "how long is a piece of string?"

As rovercare says, set the idling a bit higher to reduce the shaking to a manageable level.

The clutch engaging right at the top may reflect either an impending problem with the hydraulics, mis-adjustment somewhere (not that there is a lot to get wrong, although I have recently had the locknut come loose on the pushrod of the M/C on the 2a) or, most probably, something about the clutch conversion. One of the problems with engine conversions is you never know exactly what was done about the clutch. Again, as rovercare says, the symptom of an impending clutch replacement is slipping.

John

we've got the gear at work to check the idle speed on the suzis, if you want to drag it down one weekend I can hoist it for you and we can do all your mounts and service in one hit.

the alternator will be a hitachi lr170-401 70 amps worth.