Thread: Our Defender/County 120?

firestones may be cheaper direct from truckspring.com ?

For less than that you could convert to airsprings in the rear (i.e. remove the coils and air bags).

Then you could set them up to be operated independently for when you have a heavy load on one side and have to traverse side slopes (not technically legal but should work well).

Hally has a good writeup on his conversion.

It went of with a bang.





The pics were taken on near flat ground after I leveled it out. I couldn't take pics wile it was about to lay down Had to floor it and steer down hill to keep her up right.

The only thing I was concerned about was having a lay over and damaging the best Land Rover ever built I would be devastated if this thing ever got totaled

I'm seriously looking into full air suspension as will have many advantages over air/coil. I will have on board air for the ARB lockers anyway. The cost of setting it up with in cab control may beat me yet
http://www.truckspring.com/load-controller-i-25655.html

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

I'm seriously looking into full air suspension as will have many advantages over air/coil. I will have on board air for the ARB lockers anyway. The cost of setting it up with in cab control may beat me yet
25655 Air Lift Load Controller I Air Compressor Kit | Truckspring.com

If you want to do it on the cheap there are plenty of other options.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Well, it is certainly not a Defender, and certainly not a County - I'm not too sure what the proper designation is - probably "Landrover 110, 120" wheelbase."

The body problem I doubt you will be able to satisfactorily fix without taking the roof and cabin back off (which is not that big a job, although i'm not sure what trim you have in that). The rivets in the top of the capping are probably loose (or broken) - the Isuzu is great at popping rivets, probably a good idea long term to set the idle a bit higher, or fit a hand throttle. Check that all the cabin back mounting points are tight and present, as if any of them are loose it will allow this to move, but the damage is done, same as with the door striker plate - for it I would suggest plating it with alloy about the thickness of a floor panel, for the full length of the flat part of the pillar, with plenty of rivets, and then have the striker plate mounting bolts tapped into a substantial plate of 4-6mm steel rather than bolts and nuts. (I am assuming the setup is pretty similar to the Series, which I think it is)

John

Ah... now that could explain why my county idles higher than I thought it should. Thanks John.

Well, she's going on full air suspension. I've just ordered the rear bags, in cab controller and solenoids etc I will see how it goes and then I may convert the front latter on.Will involve moving the shocks out of the turrets etc.

This is all a little expensive for a truck this age but I will keep this one for ever and if anything happens I will find another 110 and swap it all over.

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Well, she's going on full air suspension. I've just ordered the rear bags, in cab controller and solenoids etc I will see how it goes and then I may convert the front latter on.Will involve moving the shocks out of the turrets etc.

This is all a little expensive for a truck this age but I will keep this one for ever and if anything happens I will find another 110 and swap it all over.

ha man can you please keep posting your progress as I am very interested in doing this to mine, how much was the kit/set up, what brand and how much travel in the bags.