Most likely a voltage regulator
for use with a non internaly regulated alternator
We are up to wiring our 4BD1 to the Rangie, the donor vehicle had an Ingram 831235 12 V Temp Compensated Adjustable mounted on the left side of the firewall:
What is it?
What does it do?
Do I need to use it?
The engine stop unit had been removed from the donor vehicle and the hand throttle used instead, I have sourced a used engine stop unit, does anyone know how to wire up a Narva relay that has n/c and n/o contacts to work in a Rangie?
Thanks Glenn
Most likely a voltage regulator
for use with a non internaly regulated alternator
Thanks for the quick reply on the regulator, now all I need is to find out how to wire up a Narva 5pin change-over relay to run the fuel stop solenoid, BMI could find the solenoid on there system and said they would ring back about a relay and how to wire it up .... still waiting.
Glenn
This may help.
Voltage regulator
If you get desperate, I'll give you the details on how, I just used a relay with 87 and 87a, ie, N/O and N/C with a common, can;t remember how but wont take much to look at what I did
Thanks for the scan Bush65, I will hook up the relay and fuel lines this weekend and hopefully fire up for the first time, I can't do anything before then, tomorrow (Wednesday) we have to be at the Customs yard at Port Botany to pick up our boat.
To Rovercare, if it is the voltage regulator that you are talking about checking out how you did it , great, I hate trying trial and error when someone has ironed the bugs out.
Many Thanks to all that have helped.
Glenn
G'day Glen,
Did your stop unit come from another Landy or from a truck, 12 or 24 volt.
I used a 24 volt unit that came from the same truck I got my engine from. It's the same dimentions as the 12 volt unit from a Landy. It works fine on 12 volts because it only runs for a very short burst at a time. (I wouldn't run a 24 volt motor on 12 volts that had to run continuously.)
It was easy to wire up with a switching relay, but at first I had a problem where it would short out when in the engine off position. After a lot of head scratching I pulled the unit apart to see what was happening inside. I found that if I simply removed the small part pictured below it solved the shorting problem. I think the truck had some sort of multi relay setup for some reason.
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'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
G'day rijidij
The donor vehicle's stop solenoid unit had been removed, the "hand throttle" was being used to move the injectior pump arm for start/stop and a aftermarket buttton was used to fire up the starter motor, the stop solenoid I am trying to fit is a 12 v unit from a 2nd hand 110 sourced from KLR.
I put the go wires of the stop solenoid to the battery, all it does is go in-out-in-out, if all goes right I will wire up the relay to the ignition this weekend and get it operating correctly.
Glenn
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