Thread: 4BD1 into 88 Range Rover

Thanks for all the help Rovercare, I'm not able to work on the motor until Saturday, we will put the gear back then and give it another try.

Glenn

Originally Posted by The Mutt

Thanks for all the help Rovercare, I'm not able to work on the motor until Saturday, we will put the gear back then and give it another try.

Glenn

You can thank me with some pics

I'll search the forum to work out how to post pics and if possible vids.

Glenn

Originally Posted by The Mutt

I'll search the forum to work out how to post pics and if possible vids.

Glenn

www.photobucket.com

Here are a couple of pics, I hope this works.



Next to my right elbow is the plastic fuel tank we were using to gravity feed the fuel into the motor, the wiring is temporary .... I got impatient to start the motor.




Here is the Rangie finally sitting on it's new Firestone air suspension, each wheel is controlled by it's own switch, no computer.

Glenn

sounds like youve naffed the pump time...

heres how to do a spill time.

remove the rocker cover
remove the #1 HP fuel injection line
remove the check valve thats on top of the #1 injector piston, (there are copper washers in here, have replacements handy as if these leak you will get dogged running)
hack up a spare injector line and bend a U into it and then cut the end at 45 degrees so it looks like a meat hook crossed with a hypodermic needle (this is your spill time pipe)
crank the engine by hand slowly till you are at the end of the exhaust stroke.
pump the fuel prime pump till fuel is coming freely out of the spill pipe
keep pumping the prime pump and slowly turn the engine till the fuel stops coming out of the spill pipe.

check where your timings at... as a rough guide if #4 valves are not on or approaching the rock and your spill pipe stops something is wrong.

once you have it all timed right put it all back how it should be.

If your pump timing is near enough to on theres 3 things you might have wrong.

1. when you hand pumped it if you didnt open the bleed screws on the injector pump body AND the filter you will have pressurised air trapped in the system and instead of the lift pump lifting fuel it will try to keep the fuel presurised, the injector pumps will sniff at this and once you have air in the injector lines again you need a rebleed. I usually crack #2 injector line till the engine is running as smoothly as it can on 3 pots then tighten it up

2. the gauze strainer in the bottom of the lift pump is clogged.

3. the lift pump has a busted piston seal or the prime pump has and its sucking air.





this is a static timing ONLY and not the dynamic one that the auto advancer sets up once the engine is running.

best of luck,,,

where are ya at, If its not an urgent thing I might just be connable to come have a look see for ya.

Sorry about the delayed reply, it has been one of those weeks.

Last weekend we made sure we had number 1 piston in the right spot, and removed the copper washer the spring and the other bit (don't remember what it's called) hand cranked the engine until the fuel flow stopped as the manual stated, we found the pump timing to be 8deg BTDC the manual wanted 13 deg BTDC.

The only bit I didn't know was to crack the bleed screws open to let the air out, we will give that a go on the weekend.

Thanks for the offer of having a look at the motor for us but we might be a bit far away, we are doing the conversion at Sanctuary Point, South of Nowra in NSW.

I will keep you up to date with our progress.


Glenn

Almost forgot, as I mentioned before we have removed the EFI pump from the tank, my question is: should I also remove the original Rangie fuel filter from the right hand side chassis rail near the tank?

Glenn