Thread: 4BD1 into 88 Range Rover

A couple wild looking dudes

I've left my EFI filter in, but I change it out every 12 months.

JC

The saga continues.

We checked the gauze strainer, pumped up the the diesel using the hand pump and let the air out via the bleed screws, went through the spill time check of the motor (10 deg BTDC on number 1), still no start .... bugga .... we did notice while using the hand pump that diesel was coming out at a reasonable rate, looks like we have a bad seal problem.

To fix the hand pump seal is there a repair kit available or is the seal a simple rubber ring and piston deal similar to what is found in a floor jack pump.

Does anyone have the part number for the Water Temp Sensor, Gilbert & Roach were having difficulty finding one or is it Land Rover specific.

We didn't let the motor not starting get us down, we sorted out more of the electrics under the bonnet and modified most of the console area to change over from 1988 Auto to LT95 manual with air spring controls, I have been trying to keep as much of the original look and console parts in place as I could.

I will post photos later this week if anyone is interested.

Glenn

Originally Posted by The Mutt

The saga continues.

We checked the gauze strainer, pumped up the the diesel using the hand pump and let the air out via the bleed screws, went through the spill time check of the motor (10 deg BTDC on number 1), still no start .... bugga .... we did notice while using the hand pump that diesel was coming out at a reasonable rate, looks like we have a bad seal problem.

To fix the hand pump seal is there a repair kit available or is the seal a simple rubber ring and piston deal similar to what is found in a floor jack pump.

Does anyone have the part number for the Water Temp Sensor, Gilbert & Roach were having difficulty finding one or is it Land Rover specific.

We didn't let the motor not starting get us down, we sorted out more of the electrics under the bonnet and modified most of the console area to change over from 1988 Auto to LT95 manual with air spring controls, I have been trying to keep as much of the original look and console parts in place as I could.

I will post photos later this week if anyone is interested.

Glenn

Glenn,
The temp sender unit needs to be the same as the V8 one, or the gauge will be useless. If your engine was a truck motor, then I can't help but with an ex 110 county engine, the V8 sender just screws straight in

Yes, pics would be fantastic!

JC

Thanks JC, I'll use the one from the original V8.

I'll post pics in the next couple of days.

Glenn

Here are some pics of the console are modifications.



Gearbox in with the side cut-out to allow access to transfer case.



Cut-out side now has a removable panel.



Top panel in place ready to cut lever holes.



Original console getting trial fit, gear lever and air controls in place.



View from opposite direction giving a better view of the air controls.

The bracket to hold the Vacuum Diff Lock Switch and the Transfer lever is to be modified and fitted. The whole thing as well as the complete floor shall then be repainted with Killrust.



We are doing the engine conversion in Max's carport overlooking the creek giving us the opportunity to feed the ducks.

Glenn

We rebuilt the hand fuel pump, and left the other settings alone, after bleeding the fuel line and a few cranks of the starter motor she fired up sending the ducks scarpering, when I took my foot off the go pedal the motor stalled, after the idle adjust control was tweeked no problem. Now the motor starts with little drama and no accelerator and happily idles away ........... now to sort out some electrical quirks such as the alternator ........... it's not charging the battery and the warning light stays on.

Where's my multimeter?

Glenn

That's good news that the engine starts and runs ok.

Good luck with the electrics. Looks like it will be a good rangie when you are done.