Thread: Sump Gasket

I'm resurrecting an old thread here but thought I'd keep the sump gasket replacement discussion in one place.

My rubber sump gasket is leaking so I thought I'd just replace it with RTV. When it comes to fitting the necessary shorter bolts, I notice that some of the fasteners are studs with nuts. My question is: are these similar to the bolts in that they have a special rubber shank - and therefore will need to be replaced - or are they threaded their complete length and I'll be able to just tighten the nuts down further. And if I have to remove the studs and replace them with bolts, what's people's experience with how difficult that is? If it's likely to involve stubborn and/or snapped studs and extractors, I'll probably just buy the $200 rubber gasket .

I ask because the isuzu is my only vehicle and I don't want to get the sump off then find I can't finish the job....

Originally Posted by eeyore

I'm resurrecting an old thread here but thought I'd keep the sump gasket replacement discussion in one place.

My rubber sump gasket is leaking so I thought I'd just replace it with RTV. When it comes to fitting the necessary shorter bolts, I notice that some of the fasteners are studs with nuts. My question is: are these similar to the bolts in that they have a special rubber shank - and therefore will need to be replaced - or are they threaded their complete length and I'll be able to just tighten the nuts down further. And if I have to remove the studs and replace them with bolts, what's people's experience with how difficult that is? If it's likely to involve stubborn and/or snapped studs and extractors, I'll probably just buy the $200 rubber gasket .

I ask because the isuzu is my only vehicle and I don't want to get the sump off then find I can't finish the job....

If it was me I would be spending the $200.
My two cents worth.....

Replaced mine with bolts and rtv, same as the truck motor I have just acquired. Much easier and cheaper.

You need to remove all studs and replace them with bolts. None snapped but I had a few stubborn ones. Some wound out by hand though so it wasn't all painful.

Thanks people, much appreciated . Phil B, I understand where you're coming from but in this instance, I think I can save the $250 with no ill effect on operation or reliability. Not being a tightwad, just think I can better spend the money elsewhere, and there always seems to be an 'elsewhere'. For example, next to need replacing will probably be the radiator, and I have quotes for a quality recore at around $1300 . I'm really hoping they start auctioning off the army spares before then .

Originally Posted by eeyore

Thanks people, much appreciated . Phil B, I understand where you're coming from but in this instance, I think I can save the $250 with no ill effect on operation or reliability. Not being a tightwad, just think I can better spend the money elsewhere, and there always seems to be an 'elsewhere'. For example, next to need replacing will probably be the radiator, and I have quotes for a quality recore at around $1300 . I'm really hoping they start auctioning off the army spares before then .

Holy crap batman!! At that price for recore I'd be seriously considering getting in a brand new County V8 radiator from the UK and getting a local radiator shop to swap the inlet/outlet pipes. Thats what I did with mine, except I found a new V8 one locally at the time so didn't have to get it from the UK.

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

Holy crap batman!!
Steve

My thoughts exactly! I did email a few parts places here and in the uk regarding the construction of their V8 County radiators and the two replies I got said their examples were aluminium cores with plastic headers. Even if you could swap the outlets on those over, I'd reckon they'd die a quick death behind an isuzu. Haven't pursued it further since.

We got one from TRS, brand new v8 county one for around $350 then just had the outlets changed over