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Thread: cracked housing

  1. #1
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    cracked housing

    I have a cracked front diff housing,its were the top and bottom sections are welded together,about half way along the LH side.Can this be rewelded or should I replace the housing?I,ve heard that once these start to crack,rewelding is a quick repair but they will just crack again.Any idears?

  2. #2
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    Try This

    Before you weld it drill a small hole right at the end of the crack, It will stop the crack from going further and take the filler plug out before you weld.
    Hodgo

  3. #3
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    Just weld it.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  4. #4
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    Replace the front housing, trailing arms, ..... with that of a Series1 Disco. Ask around first but I know it has been done without much drama. Lots of Series 1 Disco parts around - (not from us though)

    Erich

  5. #5
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    Mine has cracked around the weld on the pan over the diff centre. I was told that diff casings often crack on Isuzu engined vehicles and that a lot of people have had them strengthened. I am currently stripping a spare front end and will be getting the casing externally strengthened (as opposed to internally laminated/tubed). It won't cost much and will give more strength and protection off road.

  6. #6
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    As Dave says , quite common problem due to the weight of the engine etc. I would definately do as Erich suggests, a D1/ defender 7 bolt flange housing is the best way to go in the long term, short term , a decent run of MIG weld will prevent it getting much worse. It is preferrable to vee out where the crack is a little prior to welding IE die grinder out along the crack to a few mm of depth to provide a 'gutter' to fill with the bead of weld.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #7
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    In my view, one contributor to the cracking is the use of more rigid polyurethane bushes which put more twisting force on the axle housing than rubber ones do. Of course, the heavier engine helps as well (I have had cracking round the pan on the front).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    As Dave says , quite common problem due to the weight of the engine etc. I would definately do as Erich suggests, a D1/ defender 7 bolt flange housing is the best way to go in the long term

    JC
    Hi JC re the 7 bolt flange housing,the housing I have now has 7 bolts that hold the swivel to the diff housing,does that mean I just get a defender housing and use my diff centre,axles,cv,s and swivels to the defender housing?Are the defender housings stronger?Thanks jim.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by yt110 View Post
    Hi JC re the 7 bolt flange housing,the housing I have now has 7 bolts that hold the swivel to the diff housing,does that mean I just get a defender housing and use my diff centre,axles,cv,s and swivels to the defender housing?Are the defender housings stronger?Thanks jim.
    Ah, yours must be late '85 onward then. There isn't anything stronger available then AFAIK, A later model housing would be a better bet due to a lack of fatigue issues etc though.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    In my view, one contributor to the cracking is the use of more rigid polyurethane bushes which put more twisting force on the axle housing than rubber ones do. Of course, the heavier engine helps as well (I have had cracking round the pan on the front).

    John
    I've run poly's for 100,000km with 40psi in the tyres. No cracks yet. If it was going to crack from torsion I'd expect it to happen where the radius arm brackets meet the tube.
    Changed the whole front axle earlier last year because it was bent (was bent sometime prior to 1992) and 24 spline sounded better.

    I have a whole rear casing drawn up that I could run through FEA, but not front yet.
    The casings on these axles are 1/4" thick.

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