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Thread: Turning the fuel up on the isuzu..

  1. #21
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by 1103.9TDI View Post
    Gave in to curiosity over the weekend, turned the fuel & boost up. One turn for anticlockwise for the fuel and adjusted the boost to 15PSI, figuring the intercooler would allow possibly more, but without an EGT gauge, further fuel/boost would be risky.

    What a difference!, the change is as much as going from an NA to a Turbo-charger!. With a heap of gear, two adults and a child, this thing just eats any hill, and continues to accelerate until I pike out, which scares the hell out of the missus. She actually worked up a nervous sweat while we drove around this arvo, I can't help myself. Late model Hiluxes look out, an empty twincab couldn't keep up on Sunday, and I'm only carrying around a rooftent & ladder, chainsaw, 150ltrs fuel, 20ltrs of H2O, slab of cold Gold in an Engel, a generator, heavy toolbox/spares and heaps of camping/fishing gear; let alone the weight of the vehicle & accessories!.

    EGT gauge to be fitted this week, to make it easy it'll go in the exhaust, like most trucks. Interesting to see if there's much left temp-wise and what the economy is like with the little black plume showing on initial throttle.

    Where did you get the fridge on yours. Does it work well? I'd like one for my 120 as may need air con when I get old old and soft

    Tony

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Trust you...... You just had to try it didn't you
    Yea

  3. #23
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    Word just in from 4btswaps.com
    A stock Isuzu pump with the screws wound out has been measured at 140cc/thousand shots.

    Provide enough air and you've got roughly twice the stock torque figures.
    You need about 30psi boost to burn it cleanly and probably more to keep your EGT's under control.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Word just in from 4btswaps.com
    A stock Isuzu pump with the screws wound out has been measured at 140cc/thousand shots.

    Provide enough air and you've got roughly twice the stock torque figures.
    You need about 30psi boost to burn it cleanly and probably more to keep your EGT's under control.
    I've been looking for a bigger pump. One from a 4H would do except they rotate in the opposite direction.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bush65 View Post
    I've been looking for a bigger pump. One from a 4H would do except they rotate in the opposite direction.
    The pumps look very similar, can you put the important bits in a 4BD1 pump?

  6. #26
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    There are different versions of the 4HE engine, each with different pumps. I know some things like 3 different plunger diameters and different strokes.

    I only know the plunger diameter of my pump, I don't know the stroke. I would expect the helix ports in the barrels would vary to suit the stroke, which is dependent on the camshaft.

    I could change plungers and barrels, but don't know the issues with changing camshafts when they rotate in opposite directions.

    I would like to get a bigger pump with a boost compensator.

    Although my engine was factory turbo, the pump did not have a boost compensator, but funny thing is, it has 1mm larger dia plungers than a pump with boost compensator from a 4BD1T. 9.5mm vs 8.5mm. I'm thinking it may be the same pump as a n/a 4BD1, and probably has a smaller stroke.

    I have part numbers for larger plungers and barrels 10mm which suit the pump with boost compensator, but don't know if they would suit mine.

    Both the 4HE and 4BD engines have the Bosch A size pump and RLD governor, so parts will swap over, but ...??

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bush65 View Post
    There are different versions of the 4HE engine, each with different pumps. I know some things like 3 different plunger diameters and different strokes.

    I only know the plunger diameter of my pump, I don't know the stroke. I would expect the helix ports in the barrels would vary to suit the stroke, which is dependent on the camshaft.

    I could change plungers and barrels, but don't know the issues with changing camshafts when they rotate in opposite directions.

    I would like to get a bigger pump with a boost compensator.

    Although my engine was factory turbo, the pump did not have a boost compensator, but funny thing is, it has 1mm larger dia plungers than a pump with boost compensator from a 4BD1T. 9.5mm vs 8.5mm. I'm thinking it may be the same pump as a n/a 4BD1, and probably has a smaller stroke.

    I have part numbers for larger plungers and barrels 10mm which suit the pump with boost compensator, but don't know if they would suit mine.

    Both the 4HE and 4BD engines have the Bosch A size pump and RLD governor, so parts will swap over, but ...??
    So how much fuel are you looking for?

    The pump on my engine is (AFAIK) the 86 model with boost compensator, the spare pump I have is I think 88 onwards without the boost compensator. Do you know what numbers I should be looking for to determine plunger sizes?

    They changed the bore and taper on the drive gear so I can't use the later pump until I find a later gear.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    So how much fuel are you looking for?

    The pump on my engine is (AFAIK) the 86 model with boost compensator, the spare pump I have is I think 88 onwards without the boost compensator. Do you know what numbers I should be looking for to determine plunger sizes?

    They changed the bore and taper on the drive gear so I can't use the later pump until I find a later gear.
    I don't have a particular number for how much fuel. I'm looking for a pump with a boost compensator that has a stock fuel setting higher than the 4BD1T. Then I figure that it can be adjusted to suit my purpose.

    A pump for a 4HE should do that except they rotate in the opposite direction. If the cam lobes are symmetrical, it probably won't matter, so I may try it, if I find one.

    The plunger diameter is in one of the numbers on the pump label. Look near the bottom of the label for a number with PE near the start.

    On my pump it is NP-PE S4A95C412RS2000
    NP is Diesel Kiki
    PE is inline pump (VE is distributor type)
    S is with flange
    4 is number of plungers
    A is pump type/size
    95 is 10 times plunger diameter in mm
    C is design code
    4 is equipped with lift pump
    1 is governor located on left side (viewed from cover plate)
    2 is automatic timer on right side (viewed from cover plate)
    R is clockwise rotation (viewed from automatic timer side)
    S2000 is design code

    The number near the top of the label is the pump number that is needed for the calibration by the pump shop. On my pump it is 10140-6510.

    My manual states 101401-0290 for 4BD1, and 101401-0660 for 4BD1T with boost compensator.

    I have seen a pump with boost compensator from a 4BD1T, 101401-0661 that had 8.5mm plungers.

  9. #29
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    Just checked my pumps, they're both 95's.

    Did Hino have some big 4 cyl diesels?

  10. #30
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Well... I had to do it. Only half a turn though. Made a huge improvement and still no fuel smoke under load. No phyro fitted yet

    Can now pull 1400kgs of fertilizer up the hills here in 4th gear

    Our 1HZ powered land cruiser here is back in 3rd on the same with no load on tray and has smaller tyres.

    I'd like to put a fridge on this thing and get a bit more so can keep away from the new V8 cruisers in the hills

    Tony
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