Thread: Is this a Series three Stage 1 3.9 Isuzu

Originally Posted by Dougal

From what I've seen, yes same block. But I'm still open to being surprised.

There are only two ways to fit it to the landrover gearbox. Isuzu/landrover LT95/85 parts (which deems it a normal 4B series block) or a custom setup which will mean the landrover/isuzu parts didn't fit.

So all the 102mm bore engines have the same block, just different cranks?

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Garry - If you are happy with the 4BB1, then at least you have an engine, if (possibly) nothing else. I have heard rumours about 4BB1s snapping cranks, however I am sure that won't be an issue in a land rover.

Dougal posted here: Isuzu 4BD1 Bell-housings. - Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums that all 4BXX bellhousing bolt patterns should be the same.

The only issue I can think of would be the legality of putting a 4BB1 in a vehicle as "new" as a 130. But you could always convince the authorities it is a 4BE1...

Ok am I happy not quite sure;
is this motor likely to have the bell housing I require??
Will it bolt up to a LT gearbox??
The longer ratio stroke/bore what will this do for drivability and off roading??
Is this motor going to be as aggressive on gearboxes like the 4BD1's??
And legally putting in what is a old motor into the 130?? Off to RTA to find out.

I was not overly concerned about the motors condition it was not why I bought the car in the first place as rebulding is an option or just replace it were my thoughts. It was the conversion components I was after as these are hard to get. Thats why I thought is would be a cheap option to gettings things started in the conversion progress. If it proves that this is not going to suit my requirements then I have to admit stupidity/ignorace has lead me down this path, certain not rationally thinking about it.
Garry

Originally Posted by isuzurover

So all the 102mm bore engines have the same block, just different cranks?

I think all the B series regardless of bore are the same. The 4BG1 (4.2 litre) looks the same as the 4BC2 (3.3 litre).
I'm currently using a 4BE1 gearbox on my 4BD1T. Bolted straight up.

Originally Posted by garryseries3

Will it bolt up to a LT gearbox??

Very little chance it will bolt straight up to a LR (isuzu) bellhousing. The 4BD1s fitted to landies had a special flywheel etc...

Paulthepilot has a 4BB1 in a series 3 which uses the isuzu box mated to a series t-case.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...lp-needed.html

I once tried to buy a 4BB1/4BC1 (can't remember which - was negotiating to buy it sight unseen) which had an adaptor plate mating it to a series 3 gearbox.

Originally Posted by Dougal

I think all the B series regardless of bore are the same. The 4BG1 (4.2 litre) looks the same as the 4BC2 (3.3 litre).
I'm currently using a 4BE1 gearbox on my 4BD1T. Bolted straight up.

Sure, same external appearance and same bolt pattern etc... but surely you can't use a 4BA1 block to build a 4BD1??? Which is what I was getting at.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Sure, same external appearance and same bolt pattern etc... but surely you can't use a 4BA1 block to build a 4BD1??? Which is what I was getting at.

I wouldn't expect that to work, no. I thought we were still talking external (mounts, bellhousings etc).

This is what is driving me to drop in an Isuzu motor, it is primarily that 300 Tdi motors are expensive to rebuild/ replace, mine will be getting nearer to 300,000kms by next year. A concern I have is that the 4BD1 and 4BD1-T require that in order to have a car that is a reliable on the road hassle free driver you seem to have to go and modify the rest of the drive train pretty well to the wheels to deal with the added torque espeacially at low revs (torque impulse issues and heaps of low down grunt etc.) Ideally I would like to keep the drive train fairly standard, sure why not go to a LT77S box instead of my standard LT77 and get a bit more strength. Maxi drives yes seem a sensible option. Perhaps a smaller capacity isuzu say 2.8 or 3.3L model stick a turbo on it and still have more grunt (c.f 300Tdi) with less drive train stress. Thats what I am thinking is this possibly a reasonable option not sure of the reality of that.
I suppose the $8,000 to do the conversion right give or take a couple of thousand is just a bit much to swallow in one hit. So buy the components as they come up at reasonable prices until I have what I need then do the conversion is my strategy. Possibly off on the wrong foot with my recent purchase but thats life, tread with care in future.

Kindest regards
Garry

Originally Posted by garryseries3

I suppose the $8,000 to do the conversion right give or take a couple of thousand is just a bit much to swallow in one hit.

After following all this through it would seem to me that to meet your requirements you would be better just reconditioning your current 300TDI. Surely the costs will end up being similar to installing a dodgy jap engine with all the hassles and other mods it will require.

Garry